Himalayan Trail Trekker

Favorite Himalaya Trekking Gear

2010-09-25T18:30:00.004+05:30

I find it really interesting to pick and choose just exactly the right trekking gear that I need, before I go on any trek. Not to little and definetly not too much! I am a lightweight trekker now. When I started out 7 years ago, I was carrying way too much trekking gear with me -- and not the most usefull stuff either. It kind'a sucks to cross a couple of Himalayan mountain ranges only to find some unused shirts etc. in the bottom of your backpack when you're back in 'the normal world' again!

Keeping gear weight down simply makes the trekking more enjoyable. A few pounds less do make a difference!

At the same time, you do need to bring some trekking gear for the Himalayas! No way around it. Some adjustment to when, where and how long you are going, but the following Himalaya trekking gear list is almost always good to bring.

Here is:
My top-10 list of my favorite Himalaya Trekking gear:

1. The Esbit cooker and a Canteen Cup
Super-lightweight, simple, tiny and brilliant! For making a cup of tea, coffee, hot water, melting snow, cooking noodles... Fits in any pocket and is simply too small not to bring!

2. A Therm-a-rest
I used to think that a therm-a-rest (self-inflating mattress) was too much of a luxury item for me to consider on a trek. But after I tried it, there was no way back! A good night's sleep just makes the next day so much better! I don't know anyone who has tried it and not loved it. Thumbs up for the therm-a-rest!

3. Trekking pole with ice axe! (What?... Yes!..Click to see!)
Also used to think that trekking poles were not for me. Only for people who need help balancing their too-big loads... But now I've crossed too many slippery and icy trails on north-facing slopes to keep 'taking the chance'. The added ice axe just makes it an indispensible piece of safety trekking gear, for self-arrest etc.

4. An inexpensive rain poncho
Lightweight, yet durable. Inexpensive (read: disposable) in case you don't need it anymore. I'm trying to plan my Himalayan treks outside the rain season, but you never know. And it sucks getting drenched to the bone or waiting out the rain when you want to move...

5. A beanie hat
Best thing to stay warm. Even summer nights gets cold in 5000 meters! The Icebreaker hats are 100% merino wool... Trust me, you'll like it!

6. Thermal layering
A lot of folks go and buy expensive 'breathable' jackets and trousers... and then forget to wear appropriate layers inside! Not smart. Be sure to select some appropriate thermal layers - it's the stuff sitting closest to your skin!

7. Schoeller Dryskin trousers
Get a pair of these, and you'll never want to wear anything else again! Trekking or not!! Seriously, I own 3 pairs and just love them!

8. A Marmot soft-shell jacket (there's also one for women)
People have different preferences, when it comes to sweaters/jackets for trekking. Personally, I prefer to go with a soft shell that protects me from wind and small rain showers, while allowing my body to breathe...

9. A good-quality down jacket (one for women here)
A down jacket is really a must when trekking high in the Himalayas. It'll be soooo good for you! If you don't like to bring two jackets, then skip the soft-shell (#8 above) and bring a good quality down jacket! Don't skimp here!!

10. Marmot Lithium sleeping bag
You don't always need a sleeping bag when you're trekking in the Himalayas, but when you do, this is most likely the one! I've used mine extensively, it's a bit pricy but well worth every cent!

-----

And that's it, all my favorite pieces of trekking gear for the Himalayas. Some big things and some small things. Some expensive and some cheap trekking gear. I don't see myself as a gear freak, but I try to find out what trekking equipment really gives me an added benefit on a trek, and then usually selects a good quality that can last me many times and is more enjoyable to use. What do you choose?

Gearing up for DSLR Video

2010-09-01T18:05:00.003+05:30

If you have a fairly new DSLR camera, you probably also have video capabilities. From a technical quality standpoint, the DSLR video cameras are excellent! It's the handling and operations that are the weak points.

When you bring your video DSLR on a trek, you can shoot video just like that, but... You have to be really carefull to get that high-high quality footage that your DSLR is capable of. If you're not careful, it doesn't really matter if you use a 5000$ camera or a 500$ camera!

So if you already have the expensive, good-quality dSLR camera and want to do video as well, I recommend you bring some extra items, like at least a video tripod and a external microphone. That will improve your video shooting capabilities enormously! For trekking, there is the added challenge of carrying it though. Especially the video tripod, it's really a lightweight killer. It's such a dilemma for trekking. So you do need to consider this point. For me, photography and videography is the reason for trekking in the first place, so I've gone ahead and gotten the good and heavy gear. And of course, I can also use it when I'm not trekking!

So here's my recommendations for gearing up to do video from a DSLR (in my case, Canon 5d-2) :

Tripod, bite the bullet and get it! For pro-looking video, it's essential. As recommended by dslrvideoshooter.com, this one is great for the reasonable price: Davis & Sanford PROVISTAGR18 Tripod with FM 18 Head
Mic, as much as I love pictures, I now know that sound is the more important of the two when it comes to video! The Røde videomic is widely used, for good reasons. It's compact, reasonably priced and good quality. For outdoor use, make sure you get the 'dead cat' as well (furry windjammer): Rode VideoMic Pro VMP Shotgun Microphone
Trigger for time-lapse etc, if you enjoy that sort of thing. Can produce stunning nature video footage, and it's one of the few pieces of equipment that's actually lightweight :-)... A good and cheap option is the Hahnel Giga T Pro 300' Wireless Shutter Release Timer Remote (for Canon DSLR)
ND filters, for those gorgeous, large aperture shots in full daylight. Get the size that's right for you, but make sure it's a B+W filter. They are the best! B+W Neutral Density #103
Batteries, since you can't always recharge in the field and when there's 3 days walk to the nearest power plug you'll hate yourself from running out of juice! Remember, batteries discharge quicker in cold conditions, and they're really not that expensie anymore. Find your extra camera batteries here
Memory cards, as quality video quickly takes up one GB after another, especially since 1 minute of useable footage usually requires 10-100 minutes of recorded footage (depending on your experience). Memory cards aren't really cheap, but the good thing is they are small and easy to carry..... here's the link: SanDisk Extreme HD Video 16 GB SDHC Class 10 Memory Card (SDSDRX3-016G-A21)

That's it. Now get it ordered and start trekking! Make sure you can enjoy and share your impressive footage for years to come!

PS: You can order all the stuff at once from Amazon.uk here:

The Tripod
The Microphone (plus the dead cat and the extension cable)
The Trigger
The ND Filters
The Batteries
The Memory Cards

Trekking: Nepal vs. India

2009-10-20T17:50:00.004+05:30

With the risk of pissing off some partisan, hardcore Himalayan trekkers, I’d have to say that Nepal and India offers the best treks in the Himalayas. The other countries sharing the Himalayas have spectacular places and mind-blowing scenery as well, but trekking in Bhutan is a bit expensive, Pakistan and Afghanistan have some security issues to sort out at the moment and travel in Tibet lacks the freedom to explore without government interference.

This leaves these 2 countries. So which is best for trekking, Nepal or India?

Trekking Service : Nepal vs. India (1-0)
Trekking in India is often a more lonely experience than trekking in Nepal. Which can be good or bad, depending on what you want. For beginners, Nepal is definitely easier if you go to one of the 3 well-established trekking areas: Annapurna, Everest and Langtang. You’ll still have to do some serious high-altitude walking, but there will be lodges on the route and typically more trekkers to run into and chat with. This eliminates the need to carry your own food and camping gear, and independent solo treks is not as dangerous when there are more people around, even if they are strangers (risk of getting lost, immobilized by accident).

Camping treks : Nepal vs. India (0-1)
However, if you prefer to go completely remote on a camping trek, India is just as good as Nepal, if not better. Places like Ladakh and Himachal Pradesh (esp. between Manali and Dharamsala) in north-west India has some fantastic routes that really takes you into some very remote and wild parts of the Himalayas. I guess this is a bit like trekking in Nepal in the 1950’s, before the tourist discovered it and the Nepalese started catering to trekkers.

High-altitude trekking : Nepal vs. India (1-0)
At 18,200 feet (5550 meters), Kala Pattar in Nepal’s Everest area is one of the highest “easy-trekking” peaks in the world. Some of the high passes in the same area (Cho La, Renjo La and Kongma La) reach almost the same height. And the Thorung La pass on the Annapurna Circuit (5400 meters / 17,700 ft) is probably the highest mountain pass in the world with that many trekkers passing over each year – it’s ten’s of thousands! But the show doesn’t stop there. So many other high-altitude trails in Nepal, but at 6000+ meters, it’s starting to turn into mountaineering. To mention just one, Mera Peak at 6476 meters (21,247 ft) is still classified as a trekking peak. Going to India, trekking trails can still easily be found over 5000+ meters. I don’t know if I’d call the Stok Kangri Peak (6123 m / 20,080 ft) a ‘trekking peak’, it’s definitely challenging but easier that other 6000+’ers in the area. Think I’ll have to give the point to Nepal on this one because of the relative ease of “normal” trekkers reaching 6000+.

Cheap Trekking : Nepal vs. India (0-1)
When it comes to prices, both countries are relatively cheap to be trekking in. Guides and porters (“Sherpas”) can be hired for 10-20 dollars per day. (A little note: Don’t underpay these guys. They are doing a tremendous job. And pay extra if you require special skills and experience.) It’s my feeling that Nepal is a bit cheaper for normal trekking, but going into certain areas requires hefty fees in Nepal. Dolpo and Mustang trekking fees used to be minimum 1000 USD per person, now somewhat lower. I don’t much care for these extortionist fees, which is why I’ll give India this point.

Trekking Safety: Nepal vs. India (0-0)
Nepal used to have a Maoist insurgency raging, but that ended in 2006. Even then, trekkers were never really targeted except for “donations” (involuntary, but not too hefty). The highest trekking risks in Nepal are from landslides, avalanches and plane crashes. Bus / jeep accidents and thieves are other things to watch out for. It happens, but not much. Comparing to India, hmm… I don’t have exact statistics, but taking the total numbers into account, don’t think there is much difference here. Roads and airfields are probably a bit better in Inda than in Nepal, but it’s my feeling that crime is higher in India. Certainly, in the upper part of the notorious Parvati Valley, one needs to fare with caution. Nepal or India? Split decision on this one.

Conclusion : What’s best, Trekking in Nepal or India? : Final Score = 2-2!
Sorry, I can’t proclaim a general winner here. So many factors make up a great trek: Good weather, view of snow-capped peaks, cultural encounters, high-altitude landscapes, good food, friendly people, diverse trails… Both India and Nepal have all these. Think I’ll just say that trekking in India is a bit more wild, whereas trekking in Nepal is a bit easier to arrange and complete. It’s up to you to choose which you prefer!

Check these guide books for all the info you need to plan and execute your trek. Maps, route descriptions, formalities, bus connections, getting there, best deals etc. It's all there. Brand new 2009 editions of the Lonely Planet guide books!

Best Sleeping Bag for Himalaya Trekking

2009-10-18T21:13:00.016+05:30

You can't put a price on a good night's sleep! You’ll be kicking yourself for skimping out when you are trying to sleep in high altitude, but shivering the whole night. A good sleeping bag will keep you warm, comfortable and safe, so your body is able to function properly the next day. In case your sleeping bag is slightly under-rated for the conditions you are in, you can use a liner (bag inside bag) / sleep in your thermal underwear / cover the bag with your down jacket to boost your insulation. (Just don’t put a heavy blanket on top – it squeezes all that nice insulating air out of your sleeping bag.) But the main point here is that you find the best sleeping bag for what YOU want to do!

How warm do you need your sleeping bag to be?
Use a sleeping bag that will keep you warm during the lowest possible temperature you expect on your trek. What that means in the Himalayas is typically a rating between -10 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit (-23° to 0° Celsius). No need to over-do it, just get one that’s warm enough. The extra warm sleeping bags are just heavier to carry (and/or more expensive), so just figure out what you need. Some sleeping bag hints below:

How cold does it get in the Himalayas?
Our atmosphere has what meteorologists call a 'lapse rate' of 6.5°C per 1000 meters (3.5 Farenheit per 1000 feet). In plain speak, that means that when you walk a further 1000 meters (vertical) up a mountain, the temperature drops about 6.5 degrees. So if it's a comfortable 25°C at sea level, it will be -1°C up at 4000 meters. (That's 77 F to 30 F going from sea level to 13,000 ft.) These numbers, I should say, are just average numbers and there will be much variance throughout the day and from one place to another. It's not exact, but it gives a general idea about how much temperature change with altitude, assuming you don't change latitude/longitude or go beyond the summit of Mt. Everest. (Source: USA Today / Aerodynamics for Naval Aviators). So what does this mean in practice?

High passes around 5000 meters : In places like the high passes of Annapurna Circuit and the Everest Area in Nepal, the temperatures you get are typically at or a bit below freezing during the summer time (May - September) in the nighttime at this altitude. A -5C bag should be able to keep most warm. If you go in mid-winter (December – February), temperatures frequently go down to -20, -25° C during nighttime and your sleeping bag needs to be rated for these conditions. In the high-seasons between winter and summer (October-November & March-April), a -12 degree sleeping bag should do the trick on the high passes.

Trails around 4000 meters : A lot of treks in Nepal, India and Bhutan hover around this altitude, ideal for trekking with fairly “easy” conditions and spectacular scenery. You probably won’t need the toughest rated sleeping bag, but don’t be surprised to see a bit of ice on the trail and freezing nighttime conditions. Specially from October to April/May, depending on the exact locality in the Himalayas. Generally speaking, I’d prefer and recommend you a ‘minus 12 degree (Celsius)’ sleeping bag during mid-winter and a ‘minus 5 degree (Celsius)’ sleeping bag in the beginning and end of this period.

Trails around 3000 meters : A -5°C sleeping bag should be ok during the cold season, a +5 C sleeping bag sufficient during warmer season.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Down or Synthetic Sleeping Bag?
Down-filled sleeping bags have the best warmth-to-weight ratio which is important for trekking on foot. Less important if you’re going on a road trip and can throw it on top of a jeep. So for trekking in the Himalayas, down sleeping bags are the best way to go. They are also very compressible and have good long-term durability – they’ll work for years and years, making good on your investment.

:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:

Annapurna - Sleeping bag necessary?
For Annapurna and other ‘tea-house treks’ in Nepal (IE, not camping), keep in mind that typical lodge rooms are not insulated. When it freezes outside, it freezes inside. The lodge owners will provide you with a blanket, but in the winter season and in high altitude, it still gets pretty cold up there and you will need more than the blanket to stay comfortable and warm. Many trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit and the Everest Base Camp treks bring their own sleeping bags to be sure to stay warm – and to avoid getting filthy and bed-bug infested blankets that has been used many times before, without a wash.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Best Sleeping Bags for Trekking in the Himalayas:
Having hopefully now figured out the temperatures you'll be experiencing on your Himalaya Trek, it's time to decide on a sleeping bag. Unfortunately it's not as simple as just looking at the temperature ratings, since some manufacturers tend to be optimistic and overestimate the warmth. But looking at the manufacturers, the weight and quality of insulation material used, I've found some solid options you can choose from here:

For COLD Conditions (-5°C):
-------------------------------------------------

Marmot Sawtooth
Weighs 1.4 kg (3 lbs)
Goose down (600+ fill)
Rated to +15 Fahrenheit (-9 °C)

Although rated for 15F, 20-30F seems more realistic, making it ideal for high passes in summer and many typical treks year round.

Down collar, full-length double zipper, spacious mummy-design.

Eureka! Casper 15
Weighs 1.4 kg (3 lbs)
Synthetic material
Rated +15F (-9°C)

Holds out cold amazingly well for a synthetic sleeping bag this size and prize! Compresses well in stuff sack (included), although not as well as down. Can be used a bit below freezing point, but not -9°C as rating say. Perhaps with a good fleece liner...

For COLDER Conditions (-12°C):
-------------------------------------------------

Marmot Lithium
Weight only 1.2 kg (2.8 lbs)!
Goose down (850+ fill)
Rated 0 F (-18°C)

Very good goose fill factor and still super lightweight. Great for long treks on high Himalayan trails in all seasons except mid-winter. Editors Choice in Backpacker Magazine 2008.

North Face Elkhorn
Weighs 2.3 kg (5 lbs)
Synthetic
Rated 0 Fahrenheit (-18°C)

With a price of less than $100, it is an excellent choice, but not for -18°C as the rating says. Temperatures down to -12°C are still comfy.

For COLDEST Conditions (-25°C):
-------------------------------------------------

Marmot Col EQ
Weight 2.1 kg (4.1 lbs)
Goose down (800+ fill)
Rated to -20F (-29°C)

An amazing sleeping bag that will keep anyone warm in the toughest conditions. It is quite expensive, but if you are attempting icy and snowy high trails and passes in winter-time, this is a fantastic bag that will make your otherwise impossible trek possible!

Eureka! Eagle Point
Weight: 2.9 kg (6.4 pounds)
Synthetic
Rated to -15F (-26°C)

It's another two pounds of weight, it doesn't compress as well and it's temperature rating is a bit less, compared to the down bag. But the price of this Eureka! bag is about 1/10th of the Marmot down bag! It's the cheapest sleeping bag in this selection, and one of the warmest!

Sleeping bag liners
A liner (bag inside bag) is a good way of adding a bit extra warmth to any sleeping bag. And it allows you to be flexible: On the lowest parts of the trail, just sleep in the liner, on mid altitude sleep in your sleeping bag - on high parts of trail sleep in both! Check out these nifty ones:

And finally, whatever sleeping bag you get, if you plan on sleeping on the ground / in a tent, a sleeping pad is mandatory. Without it, you'll be pressing your body weight straight through the sleeping bag and effectively lying directly on the cold ground. The self-inflating Therm-A-Rest is just fantastic for this purpose. Everybody deserves one! Well worth the extra bucks. Only thing to consider here is if you want to save money or get the lightweight Therm-a-Rest. It's either 1½ or 2 pounds weight. See prices on the right.

Is the Therm-a-Rest really worth the extra pound or so, compared to a simple foam sleeping mat? I've tried both and I think so! But for the minimalist the Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Mattress might be a better option, weighing slightly less than a pound.

Enjoy your sleeping bag. And sweet dreams!

Related posts:

Best Trekking Stove for High Altitude Trails

2009-10-17T14:26:00.012+05:30

Bringing your own little camping stove on a trek in the Himalayas is a great way to trek more independently, to stay and eat wherever you want, and to go exploring the more remote parts where few others go. If you are crossing high passes over 4-5000 meters (~15,000 ft) you’ll probably be encountering lots of snow, so carrying your own camping stove has the added benefit of enabling you to melt snow for drinking water… If you get the right high-altitude stove, that is! Here’s a few tips on finding the best trekking stove for high altitude trekking:

Let’s agree on one thing first. A good cooking device for trekking in the Himalayas (beyond the guest-house trails) needs to…
1. be robust and reliable (it’s “mission-critical gear”),
2. work in high altitudes and freezing conditions (when you need it most)
3. and be fairly lightweight (unless you’ve got someone else to carry it for you).

In my eyes, everything else is of secondary concern: How fast does it burn? Does it make a noise? Is it environmentally friendly?... Sure – it’s all nice, but… First things first.

There’s plenty of primus options out there:

-
And for ultra-lightweight "stoves",
-

But when it comes to high-altitude use in Himalayan conditions, it usually comes down to either a Trangia or a MSR cooker. And that’s what we need here. Both the Trangia and the MSR (specially the XGK model) are well suited for Himalayan conditions. But which one is the best cooker for Himalaya, the Trangia or the MSR stove?

Primus: Trangia vs. MSR Cooker
I’ve used a Trangia since my days as a boyscout and still use one when I’m trekking in the Himalayas, occasionally over 5000 meters. For me, it just feels better and is more enjoyable to use. I’ve used a MSR cooker once in high-altitude (trekking with friends who insisted on MSR), but the damn thing broke down half way (4 days) into the trek – by a fumbling hand… Ok, we managed to fix it up again - it actually comes with spare parts !? – but that experience just made me more happy with my Trangia! Fair to say, that’s just my preference. Lots of trekkers use MSR all the time. I guess it’s just a question of getting used to working with it.

The MSR cooker does have some real advantages: It’s usually more lightweight, burns quicker and uses less fuel. (Note that the XGK model is the best MSR for high altitude.) But I’ll have to say that when it comes to reliability, the Trangia is unsurpassed in my eyes. You pour in fuel and light a match. That’s it! The MSR uses pressurized fuel running through a pipe, so you need to prime it and pump it up - which is also why it’s more noisy.

Another thing I love about my Trangia is the design – you open the self-contained system and use the outer part as a sturdy windshield. It has little holes in one side so you turn it toward a light wind or against a heavy wind to make sure the burner get’s just the right airflow. Very intuitive. The MSR on the other hand, uses a flappy little wind-wall that I suspect might fall down or even blow away in strong wind… Although I’ve never seen that happen.

Fuel for Trangia or MSR Cooker
The last point is the fuel. The Trangia uses liquid fuel that you pour into the burner and light it. The fuel is usually alcohol which has be denaturated (meaning methanol has been added to the ethanol to make it undrinkable. Thus also called “metho” / methylated spirits). Denatured alcohol is very cheap and readily available on most gas stations, in supermarkets and drug stores (isopropyl-alcohol, pain solvent…), it’s environmentally friendly and burns clean, although it doesn’t have as high warmth output per weight as other fuels (typ 27-30 MJ per kg), such as kerosene (43 MJ/kg) and gasoline (45 MJ/kg)

The MSR Cooker is pretty close to the concept of last century primus stoves which used vaporized kerosene as fuel. But the modern day MSR mini-stoves can use many other fuels such as unleaded gasoline / petrol, diesel, jet fuel and white gas. Can you use alcohol for your MSR? Probably… One thing I found slightly annoying about the MSR fuels were that I couldn’t easily see how much was left in the (metal) container…

Conclusion: Best trekking primus.
As you probably sense by now, I’m a bit of a Trangia fan myself. But to be honest, the MSR XGK is excellent as well. I’ll just advice you to get well acquainted with it before hitting the remote trails. So if you want the most lightweight, quickest and fuel efficient cooker --> go with the MSR XGK. And if what you want is the most easy to use, reliable and windproof cooker --> Go with the Trangia.

MSR XGK EX
Extreme Condition Stove
Weight: 0.5 kg

Not included:
Windscreen & heat reflector
cooking pots
handle
spare fuel bottles
and service kit.

Classic Trangia
27-5 Non-stick Stove
Weight : 0.8 kg
2 x 1-litre pot
1 x 18 cm pan

or get the larger
Trangia 25-5 UL Stove Set
Weight: 0.98 kg
1 x 1.5 L pot,
1 x 1.75 L pot,
1 x 22 cm pan

Or the lightweight
Mini-Trangia 28-T
Weight : 0.33 kg
1 x 0.8 litre pot,
1 x 15 cm pan

See with the Trangia set, you get the complete and ready-to-use set in one package. When you buy the fuel, just use whatever bottle it comes in. Now just don't forget the food and cooking / eating utensils!

Best Tents for Himalaya Trekking?

2009-10-12T23:39:00.012+05:30

I’ve found that when I bring my tent on a trek and get into the more unspoiled parts of the Himalayas, it’s often these places that are the most interesting and memorable. Off the beaten track, I can cross uninhabited passes and get up in the uppermost parts of the high valleys. That’s just extraordinary, so the tent really takes my trekking experience to a whole new level.

Below you’ll find my recommendations for

Best 1 person tent for Himalaya trekking
Best 2-3 person tent for Himalaya trekking

Of course trekking in the Himalayas with a tent (and other camping gear) is a bit harder than going on one of the ‘tea-house treks’, but it’s also a completely different experience -- The exploratory nature, the feeling of self-reliance and the sense of accomplishment you get just makes a tremendous difference!

But there is a price to pay for this freedom: Weight. The good news is that with the Best Tents, specially selected for Himalaya Trekking, there are solutions to the weight and other issues you’ll encounter.

So what makes the best tent for Himalaya Trekking?

Besides weight, you need to consider things like stability, durability and weather-protection. It comes down to design and fabrics:

For the cold conditions of the high Himalayas, I would definitely recommend a 4-season tent (winter tent) over the more normal 3-season tents. Even when it isn’t winter! High up, it gets cold in the night and 4-season tents are warmer and better at keeping out the rain, wind and even snow / spindrift.
Remember, your tent should preferably be as light-weight as possible (affordable). Shaving a couple of pounds off your load will make a difference when you are crossing a 5000 meter / 17,000 feet pass where the oxygen level is close to 50% of sea-level!
PS: If you are using porters, ponies or plan to stay put in a base camp for a while, it’s another story. But when you are on the move and hauling your own load…
Dome, Tunnel or Geodesic design? Most of the time, honestly, it doesn’t really matter for practical purposes. But the dome design is usually higher, allowing you more easily to sit comfortably upright. On the other hand, the dome has a larger wind-profile, making it more fragile when camped on an exposed, windy mountain.

3 Best Tents for Himalaya Trekking:

Best 1-Person Tent
The “Assailant” from Sierra is one of the few really good one-person trekking tents out there. Easy to carry, at 3.3 pounds / 1.5 kg, it is fairly lightweight – at least not too heavy for a 4-season tent! And still more than 2 meter / 7 feet long, so fits almost anyone... Also fits a backpack inside the tent, which extends on the back-side., but no vestibules. Everything goes into the same compartment here. It can be hard to find, since one-person tents aren't used much in high altitude conditions, but if you find one of these you can really save some weight!

		Best 2- and 3-Person Tents I simply have to point to NEMO’s “Losi” tents as the best tent for trekking in the Himalayas. Personally, I’ve been using a heavier “version” of this tent (2 prs), but the NEMO’s are super light-weight, considering their size and the fact that they are all-season tents. Also, the NEMO’s use a double-wall system with two vestibules and they are quick to put up and comfortable to stay in. All this and still just around 5-6 pounds (2.5 kg)! Most other tents this size (and price) are 2-3 pounds heavier. There are cheaper options out there, but only if you are willing to carry the extra weight! If not, get the NEMO.

Treks out of Dharamsala / McLeod Ganj (Himachal Pradesh, India)

2009-10-10T14:13:00.008+05:30

Dharamsala /McLeod Ganj is one of 3 trekking hubs in Himachal Pradesh, the other two being Shimla and Manali. The towns of Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj, at about 1800 meters / 6000 feet are interesting places in themselves, exile of HH Dalai Lama and home of the exiled Tibetan government. The best description i’ve heard is that McLeod Ganj is a ” Buddhist monk zoo full of westerners engaged in losing/finding themselves/something else very significant”. However, I think you can also find the “real thing” in the spiritual department there.

As for trekking out of Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj, it’s all about the Dhauladhar Range located just north of the towns and the Pir Panjal Range a bit further north. Both these ranges are sub-ranges of the Great Himalayan Range. The treks you can do in these mountains are in the 4-5000 meter (13,000-16,500 ft) altitude range, typically takes 5 to 8 days and pose rather steep gradient trekking. If you have the time, you can combine 2 or 3 treks into one big circle, so you’ll get back to where you started via a different route.

The area (Kangra Valley south and Chamba Valley north of the Dhauladhars) literally has hundreds of interesting trails and passes you can trek. I can’t explain all of the trekking routes here, but I’ll mention some of the most popular and interesting ones, just to give you a taste and an overview of trekking around Dharamsala / McLeod Ganj. If you really want to explore the trails off the beaten track, I’ll suggest you get a copy of one of the following books, containing maps and more detailed route descriptions :

MAP TREKKING POINTS: (1) Dharamsala / McLeod Ganj, (2) Triund, (3) Inderhara Pass, (4) Minkiani Pass, (5) Chamba, (6) Chobia Pass, (7) Manimahesh Lake, (8) Kugti Pass, (9) Sari Pass. Click here to get the Google map that you can zoom and pan around on!

(1 & 2) McLeod Ganj – Triund/Illaqa. An easy and popular little trek / day-walk taking you up to a 2800 meters / 9000 feet ridge below the Dhauladhar Range. Great views up there on a clear day! It’s a 9 km trail with tea-houses on the way and a campsite (and sparse accommodation) on the Triund site. If you continue going up, you’ll reach the snowline at Illaqa (3350 m, 11,000 ft) after 4 km and the Lahesh caves (3500 m, 11,500 ft) after further 2 km. The caves can “house” up to around 20 people. But most people spend a night at Triund and then go up to Illaqa and back to McLeod Ganj next day. This trek is open all year round, but be prepared for a bit of snow/ice trekking in the coldest months.

(3) Inderhara Pass (a.k.a. Laka Pass and various spelling forms, Indarhara, Indrhara…) is one of more than 10 passes crossing over the Dhauladhar Mountain Range. It’s 4350 m (14,300 ft), so out of Triund / Illaqa (see above) you should be able to make it up and down in one day (no camping gear needed). From the Lahesh caves, it’s about 3 hours up the steep trail. The beautiful Nag Dal (Lake) is a bit north-west of the pass. Crossing over into Chamba Valley will take 4-6 days. The Inderhara Pass is closed down most of the time between November and April.

(4) Minkiani Pass ( / Minikiani / Manikaran…), neighboring the Inderhara Pass (see above), but 100 meters lower (4250 m, 14,000 ft). Takes about 5 days to cross over, from Dharamsala into Chamba Valley (Donauli). On the trail up to the pass on the southern side is the Kareri Lake (previously glacial lake, now seasonal) and 5 km east of the pass (northern side) is the Lam Dal Lake (3900 m), the biggest lake in the Dhauladhar Mountains, about half a mile across! You can’t access it directly from the pass, but from the campsite below the pass (northern side), it is a beautiful little side-trip! The local Gaddi shepherds use this pass often but as late as May it can still be challenging due to snow/ice conditions. Or fun, if you have the proper gear!

===============================================================================
About Crossing the Dhauladhar Range:
Generally speaking, the south side trails are quite steep, the passes are closed by snow during winter and the north side has large boulders and moraine. Lots of fun! There are also several streams that become small rivers during the monsoon, making it hard to cross them at that time. There are more than 10 passes over the only 50 km long Himalayan sub-range. From west to east, they are : Belani Pass, Minkiani Pass, Gaj Pass, Inderhara Pass, Kundli Pass, Toral Pass, Talang Pass, Shinghar Pass, Waru Pass and Jalsu Pass. You are best equipped if you bring simple camping gear and, in the colder months, snow/ice trekking gear on almost all passes, although sometimes it is possible to complete a trek staying only in caves at night. Guides are recommended for beginners not familiar with trekking and the area, but not always needed. For treks in the Pir Panjal, I will recommend hiring a local guide at all times.
====================================================================================

(5) Chamba – main town in Chamba Valley and Chamba District. It is road connected with Dharamsala in the Kangra Valley below and serves as a road-head in and out of the Chamba Valley, with it’s many trail-head villages…

(6) Chobia Pass, just short of being a 5000 meter pass (4965 m / 16,300 ft), this trail can take you from Chamba into Lahaul and one of the world’s highest highways. The trail start around Brahmaur (road connected to Chamba) and as it steeply ascends and moves into glacier-land, there can be small crevasses to look out for. It’s a long and hard route for the experienced trekker, and you should not attempt without a local guide to show you the way.

(7) Manimahesh Lake in the Pir Panjal Range, 4080m, close to Manimahesh Kailash (5656m, virgin peak, ascents forbidden), very holy, pilgrimage tours in Aug-Sep (Jatras), motorable road goes to Hadsar (2280m), up 13 km streneous, steep trail along Manimahesh Ganga, Dhancho Village halfway has shelter all year, during pilgrimage more places. Also trail from Holi. Manimahesh = Shiva’s Jewel.

(8) Kugti Pass, 5040 m (16,500 ft) is another way of trekking from Dharamsala - Chamba Valley into Lahaul - Kullu Valley. Some trekking trail it is though! Should take you about a week, crossing the glaciers and possibly sheltering in natural rock caves… Like with the Chobia Pass (#6 above), this trail is not for newbies and requires a guide.

(9) Sari Pass, 3760 m (12,300 ft) is relatively easy (compared to #6 and #8 above). It makes an interesting alternative route between Manali and Dharamsala, through one of the most interior areas of the Western Himalayas. It’s best done with some elementary snow/ice trekking gear, as you will be going up/down along a small glacier.

Related posts:

Treks out of Shimla (Himachal Pradesh, India)

2009-10-05T09:51:00.009+05:30

Shimla town is one of 3 trekking hubs in Himachal Pradesh, the other two being Manali and Dharamsala / MacLeod Ganj. In itself, Shimla (2100 m, 7000 ft) doesn’t have much trekking spirit, but I have enjoyed eating good food, cake and coffee on the Mall in Shimla! Trekkers need to stuff themselves when they can, you know!

You can do a number of good treks out of Shimla, both short 1-2 days treks and other week long treks to the interior of the Himalayas. The good news is, you can do much of this as a spectacular road trip! (bus, jeep, motorcycle, bicycle!). For once, in the Indian Himalayas, there are accomodation / hotels along the route and you are able to travel independently without a guide, getting up around 4000 meters / 13,000 ft. If that’s not enough, you can pick up your camping gear and put on your hiking boots and then trek into the high altitude landscape from the roadside villages, getting up over 5000 meters / 15,000 ft!

The bad news? Well, the road isn’t exactly like a US Highway. At places, it’s nothing more than a gravel wheel track being constantly washed away by rock and landslides! Considering the altitude though, it’s pretty impressive that there is a road here in the first place!

MAP TREKKING POINTS: (1) Shimla, (2) Narkanda, (3) Jalori & Bashleo Passes, (4) Sarahan, (5) Sangla Village in Sangla Valley, (6) Chitkul, (7) Reckong Peo / Kalpa, (8) Kaza, (9) Kunzum Pass. To zoom in on map details and pan around, click HERE.

The following treks out of Shimla can basically be divided into 3 categories : Day trips from Shimla (1-3), Sangla Valley treks (5-6) and Spiti Valley treks (7-9). All places can be reached by road and short/long treks can be done from there.

1. Short treks out of Shimla (1-2 days). The Shali Tibba (2900 m, 9500 ft) is the highest peak close to Shimla. There is a fantastic view from the top and you can do the whole trek in one day. 13 km out of Shimla is Chharabra (3000 m, 10,000 ft) and Mashobra Bazaar from where you can walk around and make your way back to Shimla, also in a day.

2. Narkanda (2700 m, 9000 ft), located some 60 km from Shimla, is the base of an amazingly beautiful day trip to Hattu Peak (3400 m, 11,000 ft). Expect a bit of snow here during winter.

3. Narkanda is also the base of treks over the Jalori Pass and the Bashleo Pass heading into the Kullu Valley (where Manali is). Both passes are about 3500 meters / 11,500 ft. There is a jeepable road over much of the Jalori Pass and a number of small lodges / tea-houses over the Bashleo Pass, allowing you to trek without camping gear. 5 km east of JP is the Saryosar Lake, also worth a look! The two passes can be combined into a little circuit trek.

4. Sarahan (2300m, 7500 ft) is a picturesque 800+ year old village located in the Sutlej Valley. Worth a stop-over on your way to either Sangla Valley or the Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti Valley. There is an old Bhimakali temple that was once the site of human sacrifice and the surrounding hills are great for easy day treks.

5. Sangla Village (in Sangla Valley). The valley goes up along the Baspa River, the village is in about 2600 meters / 8600 ft. From here there are many high altitude treks that goes into the mountains south of the valley, some of the most famous being the Rupin Pass (4500 m, 15,000 ft), the Buran Pass (4700 m, 15,500 ft) and the Nalgan Pass (5000 m, 16,500 ft). This is where it is time to get your camping gear out and do some very exciting trekking!

6. Chitkul (3300 m, 10,800 ft) further up the Sangla Valley is another nice village still connected by road. It’s nice in itself but again, if you don’t mind a bit of “real” trekking and camping, there are some amazing places to go from around Chitkul. Follow the river up to its source and see / cross the Lamkhaga Pass (5300 m, 17,400 ft), then trek down to Harsil and round to Jamnotri.

7. Reckong Peo / Kalpa (2800 m, 9000 ft) is where you need to stop and get your inner line permit from the tourist office. You are now in the Kinnaur region and it is also the base of the amazing Kinnaur-Kailash Circuit/Parikrama Trek that crosses over the 5250 meter / 17,200 ft Charang La and down to Chitkul (#6 on this list). The Kinnaur-Kailash trek takes about 5 days this way. August-Septemer are the best months to do the trek.

8. Kaza (3600 m, 12,000 ft) in the Lahaul-Spiti region is where most people tend to stop and stay for the night before proceeding to Ki Gompa, Kibber Village and perhaps beyond… The area, landscape, scenery here… just mind-blowing!

9. Kunzum La (4250 m). Amazingly, state run busses also cross this pass. But it is the highest point on the route so it is the first place to close down in the fall and the last to open up in the spring. Consider bringing gear for snow-trekking to avoid backtracking a couple of days in a bus. It happened to me once. Pass closed. Turn the jeep around or cross the snowy pass? I opted for the first one since I hadn’t brought any snow gear. But I remember a couple of guys just setting out on foot… That would have been interesting!

-----------

These were some of the best treks out of Shimla. There’s plenty of other trekking options in the area around Shimla and if you are interested in doing any of these treks, I’ll recommend getting one (or both) of the following books. They have plenty of detailed maps and more route suggestions.

Feel free to add to the suggestions about trekking out of Shimla by commenting below. Thanks and Happy Trekking!

Related posts:

"The Bible" when it
comes to exploring
the Kinnaur & Spiti
region. For those of
us who are inflicted
with the travel bug.

Best treks around Manali (Himachal Pradesh, India)

2009-10-03T17:15:00.013+05:30

Nestled in the Himalayan foothills at around 2000 m (6000 ft), the little town of Manali is one of 3 trekking hotspots in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh (the other two trekking hubs being Shimla and Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj) - and yes, they all serve Western food, pizza, coffee etc:-) There’s plenty of good treks around Manali and into the surrounding area, with incredible mountain scenery, mountain lakes, high altitude passes etc. The full nine yards of trekking!

In fact, there are so many trekking options around the Manali area that it can be a bit confusing to choose where to go. But first thing you need to know is that the treks out of Manali are either day trips or camping trips. There are not really any reliable guest houses on the trekking trails, so unless you are lucky and get to crash in a farmers house or goat herders hut, you’d better bring a bit of camping gear.

Before we have a look at the treks around Manali, take a look at this map (GoogleMaps) showing the terrain. Just look at those valleys and mountains! Manali is right there in the upper half of Kullu Valley, just before the Himalayas really take to the sky!

MAP TREKKING POINTS: (1) Manali in Kullu Valley, (2) Bhrigu Lake, (3) Beas Kund, (4) Rohtang Pass, (5) Parvati Valley, (6) Jagatsukh and “Chander Tal” lake (the small one), (7) Hamta Pass, (8) Chander Tal Lake (the famous one), (9) Pin-Parvati Pass. Click HERE to zoom in and pan around on this map!

Note that the map points dotted in here are not exact. Good maps of the area are hard to come by. You can still use the old maps with ridge lines (rather than contour lines). Get them here:

Or you can get the new Lonely Planet guide book for the Indian Himalayas (5th edition, 2009) and copy the maps from there. (That would be my option.)

Treks around Manali
If you have a map, nothing can stop you from just heading off and exploring the area on short treks, returning same night. Don’t be lazy! It’s a beautiful area around Manali, so do some exploration! Also good as warm-ups for longer treks. But the real trekking around Manali only starts when you are ready to take a couple of nights out in the open! So get that tent and sleeping bag, and there’ll be nothing between you and the stunning mountain area! Here are some of the best places to go around Manali:

1. Short treks around Manali, some well known points of interest around Manali would be the: Vashist Hot Water Springs, just 3 km out of Manali, across the Beas river is this idyllic village with natural sulfur springs. The Nehru Kund, a natural little water spring, 6 km from Manali. You can also stroll down the valley to Jagatsukh village 6 km down along the river. The Solang Valley, 14 km from Manali, has ski slopes in winter and is a popular picnic spot in summer. Nice views all year round! And the Rahala Waterfalls, 16 km out of Manali, about 2500 m (8000 ft)

2. Bhrigu Lake, 3-4 days trekking from around Manali, you’ll be going up to an altitude of 4250 m (14,000 ft) to this stunning mountain lake and its holy waters.

3. Beas Kund, a holy, glacial lake at 3700 m (12,000 ft), the origin of the Beas River. This is one of the most popular and beautiful treks out of Manali. Also an ideal place for acclimatization for higher altitudes and as a base camp for climbing the nearby Shitidhar and Friendship Peaks, both about 5300 m / 17,300 ft. Expect snow here until April.

4. Rohtang Pass, (a.k.a. Rohtang La / Rohtang Jot) drivable by road from Manali, this 4000 meter (13,000 ft) mountain pass is pretty impressive… but not open all year around. The Rohtang La usually opens up in May and stays that way until September/October or so.

5. Parvati Valley, lush and green valley with a couple of small resort villages, Kasol and Manikaran, the last one being famous for its hot springs and, unfortunately, infamous for drugs and crime. It is possible to do a one-day trek from Malana Village (near Manikaran) over the Chanderkhani Pass to Nagar (on the road to Manali), but it will be a long day, ascending from 2650 m to 3650 m to 1450 m. Malana is a quite obscure little village, you may not want to stay here if you are too sensitive!

Is Malana / Parvati Valley safe to trek?
Good question! Do a Google search for “Parvati Valley crime” and you will find stories about tourists disappearing and even getting killed! Likely related to drug use and perhaps not relevant if you are trekking through the area. But beyond Manikaran, I’ll advise you not to trek alone under any circumstances.

6. Jagatsukh and “Chander Tal” lake, source of some confusion. There are actually two lakes named “Chander Tal”. This one is probably NOT the one you have heard about, it’s about ¼ size of the “real” Cander Tal, #8 on this list. Still beautiful though!

7. Hamta Pass, very scenic trek over the 4250 m / 14,000 ft Hamta Pass. From Manali you can either end it at Chatru (road connected village with some accommodation) or continue into the Lahaul Spiti area. In fact, this was allegedly the way to enter Lahaul/Spiti before the road was built.

8. Chander Tal, a.k.a. the Moon Lake. Very beautiful, “magical” spot at around 4250 m / 14,000 ft. Out of Manali, you can take a 4WD or jump on a bus(!) to Batal and then trek up to the lake. Or drive to Kunzum Pass and trek down to the lake! Should be possible to reach in one day, but since you’ll probably not be able to get back same day, make sure you are acclimatized for 4000 meters before going from around Manali, at 2000 meters. You’ll also need to cross the Rohtang La (#4), usually closed due to snow from September to May. If you are in private/rented jeep, there’s also a rough road going all the way to the lake.

Driving down the Kunzum Pass close to Chander Tal. Click image to order as poster!

9. Pin-Parvati (Parbati) Pass, this is a really interesting and long trek. Expect to take about 2 hard weeks for this one! But worth every effort! After crossing the 5300 m (17,400 ft) pass (west-to-east), you’ll be in the Spiti Valley with a completely different landscape and an ancient Buddhist culture. They have some out-of-this-world monasteries here: Tabo, Ki gompa, Dhankar and Kibber village. And the good thing is: You don’t have to walk back. Spiti Valley has a reasonable good road and you can actually catch a bus taking you back to the Manali area!

Rock / earth pillars in Spiti Valley, east side of the Pin-Parvati Pass. Click image to order as poster!

I have personally stayed and trekked several weeks in this Manali area. And specially spent time in the Spiti Valley. Would love to go back again, and I think my choice (out of Manali) would be first the Beas Kund trek (#3) and then the Bhrigu Lake trek (#2). Spend some time in both places for acclimatisation. And then the big one, the Pin-Parvati pass (#9)! That would be my dream trek around the Manali area, taking about one month to complete (I don’t like to rush it). Some day…

Pre- vs. post-monsoon? I’d think early post-monsoon (July-August) would be best, as the snow shouldn’t give too much problems that time of year.

If you are doing any of these (or other) treks around Manali, let me know how it went! Use the blog comment option right here below. Thanks...

"The Bible" when it comes to exploring the Kinnaur & Spiti region. For those of us who are inflicted with the travel bug.

Snow / Ice Trekking Tips

2009-09-27T09:18:00.012+05:30

Trekking on snow and ice can be a blast! – But it can also be challenging and sometimes dangerous. During winter treks, while crossing over high passes or any other snow and ice trekking scenarios, proper preparation is key to ensure your safety and comfort. For the full story on snow / ice trekking, have a look at the book (right) by a Canadian guy called Montague Alford. Among other things, he describes how to make your own little can-candle stove to melt snow for drinking water. Excellent stuff!

Ok, let me just start with some essential warnings. Heed them, but don’t let them scare you away. Trekking in snow/ice over the high passes in the Himalayas is well worth the effort!

7 warnings about trekking in snow/ice (essential tips)

1. Bring food. Both non-emergency energy bars in your pocket and real-emergency stuff somewhere else. Just in case you have to spend a forced night out in the open somewhere. And keep the emergency food for when you need it, don’t munch it all down before normal dinner…

2. Stay hydrated. Dry winter air will dehydrate you quickly without you noticing until it is too late. You won’t find much running water in sub-zero conditions. You need to carry water with you or melt snow.

3. Wear warm clothes. Obviously, you don’t want to get frost bite on your toes or fingers, you don’t want to shiver.

4. Protect yourself from the sun. The UV rays are strong up there during days with sunshine. Sunscreen and sunglasses are essentials!

5. Don’t go to the edge. Edge of snow – could be a cornice, a snow drift extending out over something/nothing! Edge of ice – could break and you’ll fall into icy water.

6. Don’t go alone.

7. Keep an eye on the weather.

That was the quick, important essentials of snow / ice trekking. The following is less essential tips that might help you have a more comfortable and enjoyable trekking experience.

16 tips about trekking in snow/ice

1. Kick step. When walking up in soft snow or ice, you can kick your boots into the snow/ice to create steps and footholds.

2. The “Herringbone Technique”. Instead of pushing your boot directly into the snow, step sideways to get a little more of the shoe into contact with the snow.

3. Use your heels. When descending on snow / soft ice, flex your ankle so the toe is pointed up and step down hard on the heel.

4. Switch backs. On steep ascends and descends, cross left-right-left-right rather that going the direct way. Makes the route effectively less steep.

More tips about gear for snow / ice trekking:

5. Hiking Boots / Mountaineering Boots / Snow Boots. Your boots are very important. They should have waterproof outer shells such as oiled leather or, ideally, plastic. Stiff plastic snow boots are the best for snow and steep icy trails, but they are heavy to carry around when you are not in the snow. The second best is hard mountaineering boots compatible with crampons. With normal hiking boots your feet will invariably get wet after some time in the snow, as the warmth from your feet escapes and melts the snow on your boots. Gore-Tex hiking boots helps with the water problem.

6. Crampons / YakTrax. Slightly annoying to take on and off, but not more technical to use than roller skates. Crampons adds extra weight, but for steep and extended icy trails, specially if there is a long fall underneath you, proper crampons can be worth considering. Ultimately they can save your life! Like any footwear, make sure it fits. For crossing glaciers and snow, the flexible crampons are better than the rigid ones for technical climbing. Alternatively, a set of YakTrax - essentially lightweight crampons NOT intended for mountaineering, - might be better than nothing. But also check point 7 and 8 in this list.
7. Trekking Poles / Snow-Ice Poles. A lot simpler than crampons and I would say using trekking / snow poles is the bare minimum you need for icy trails. Trekking poles add extra balance points and additional power. They are invaluable in icy conditions. It’s good to be able to adjust your poles when you are traversing a hillside, so get telescopic poles. Use the short pole on the uphill side and the long pole on the downhill side. You can get a decent pair of trekking poles for $30 and up. But for the Himalayas, I'll recommend you to get a trekking pole with an ice axe! What a brilliant idea!! Check it out --->
8. Ice Axe. Another substitute (or addition) for the crampons is the ice axe. It is probably more useful than the crampons if there are only very short tricky sections. You can use it to cut steps in the ice and in case you loose balance and start to slide, use it to self arrest. That is, stop your fall! Straight shaft axes are the best for glacier travel, bent shaft axes for dedicated climbing. You may want to go with a trekking pole on the downhill side and an axe on the uphill side. You need to learn to use the ice axe though. If not sooner, try asking other more experienced trekkers on the trail about how they use it. In the end, the axe can save your bacon!
9. Gaiters. When you’re walking in snow, knee-high gaiters can keep the snow out of your boots and therefore help to keep your feet drier and warmer. Gaiters also add another layer of material around your lower legs to help keep them warm. Some trekking trousers have build in gaiters that extends over your boots, see the post about trekking trousers to find them.
10. Sunglasses. Not just for looking cool (although they help in that department as well), but at high altitude the UV light is a lot more intense and your eyes need protection. This is specially true when trekking in snow / ice. The snow reflects pretty much all the light and without proper protection, snow blindness is a serious risk. Additionally, your sunglasses should have side shields to avoid incidental light exposure. Sunglasses should always be worn, even when the sky is overcast as UV rays can pass through clouds.

11. Warm clothing. Self-evident, really. Since you are reading this, chances are that you'll encounter cold air and cold wind, so you'll need to be equipped to keep all parts of your body warm, at all times. Be sure to include a spare pair of gloves to change, if the primary gloves get wet. For more, check the warm trekking clothes guide here.

Other tips for snow / ice trekking:

12. You can keep your water bottles from freezing in your pack by putting them in a wool sock or insulated bottle cover.

13. I’m not sure if it is just a myth, but some people say that water mixed with flavor powder will freeze at a lower temperature than plain water. Perhaps try it in your freezer – and let me know the results!

14. Another little trick is to turn your water bottles upside down so that any ice forming in the bottle will be in the bottom of the bottle instead of in the opening.

15. And to keep your boots from freezing at night, put them in a stuff sack (you can use your sleeping bag stuff sack) and put them inside your sleeping bag at the foot end of the bag. If there’s not enough space, at least put your boot insoles in the bag.

16. And the final piece of advice, use a trekking guide if you are crossing over a high mountain pass in snow/ice conditions! Specially if you are not experienced. You don't want to get lost in the snow!

-------------------

As with a lot of other things in life, "the more you put into it, the bigger the reward is!" Snow/ice trekking requires some extra effort, but the outdoor world in its frozen state can take you into a new realm of pleasure where you can enjoy silence, solitude, and a mind-blowing landscape that will redefine "white" in your mind! So get them winter boots and trekking poles now, and start preparing your next trek for the fourth season! Snow / ice trekking is a blast! Have a look around this site for the best high altitude snow treks, such as Everest and Annapurna. Happy trails!

Suggestions for further reading about snow / ice trekking tips :

Everest Routes, Descriptions & Map

2009-09-26T15:02:00.014+05:30

OVERVIEW: On the Nepal side there are basically 4 trekking routes around Everest – all of them absolutely world class treks! Generally speaking, all routes start in Namche Bazaar (3440 m / 11,300 ft), accessible by 1½ days walk from the airstrip in Lukla (2900 m / 9,500 ft) or by walking in from Jiri (1900 m / 6000 ft). Walking from Jiri takes about 9 days + a days drive to the trailhead, while flying in from Kathmandu to Lukla only takes about ½ hour – the choice is yours! It’s also possible to cross over the high passes to connect the different routes at the top, rather than having to return same way you came.

Crossing either of the high passes : Kongma La, Cho La and Renjo La is not too difficult when the conditions are good. You do need to be in good shape, acclimatized, well hydrated and be used to walking on steep scree though. In case there is snow or ice on the trail, it’s a different story altogether. Still doable, but be properly prepared for the more severe trekking conditions. It is fantastic routes! Snow and ice is exceptional during the main seasons, but common from December to March. Check the post about snow / ice trekking tips for more info on how to prepare yourself. And there's more detailed route descriptions of the high passes below.

Here is a map I drew up of the different trekking routes in the Everest region. It is intended to give an overview only, not to be an exact trekking map. But for planning purposes, I actually think it is pretty useful. I’ve also plotted in some of the most talked about locations that you’ll probably spend a lot of time talking about when going there.

Everest Region map: Green lines = The 4 main routes. Green dotted lines = The 3 high passes. Yellow dots = Trekking peaks. Yellow stars = Climbing peaks. Red dots = Important villages.

Everest Main Routes Descriptions:

Route 1 : Nangpa Glacier
The least traveled route of the 4. Ultimately, it leads to the Tibetan (Chinese) border point at Nangpa La, at 5716 m, 18753 ft. You'll be passing through Thame village on your way, and if it's May, try and catch the interesting Mani Rimdu Dance Festival there!

Route 2 : Gokyo Trek
There are some beautiful lakesup in the Gokyo area. Stunning turquoise waters, at least when they are not frozen in January/February. You can also walk up to the nearby Gokyo Ri, a 5357 meter / 17,575 feet ridge with excellent views of the entire area, Everest included (although farther away from E. than from KP, arguably better view!). Also don't miss upper Gokyo valley - going to the 4th, 5th and 6th lake (“Scoundrel's view”) and finally the lakes nearer to Cho Oyu base camp. It is a beautiful walk on a good trail can and it can be done as a day trip from a lodge at Gokyo 3rd lake.

Route 3 : Everest Base Camp (EBC)
Let’s face it. Everyone here wants to get close to the BIG E, the mother of all mountains, the roof pillar of the world: Mt. Everest. Or Sagarmatha as it is called in Nepalese or Chomolungma / Qomolangma as it is called in Tibetan. For the best view of Everest many trekkers actually skip the base camp and head up to Kala Pattar (KP) in stead. There’s great views from KP and it is not a technical climb to get up there. But at 5550 m / 18,200 ft, it requires good lungs and warm clothes! You can also do both KP and EBC on the same trek, the two places are not that far apart, both being about half a days walk from Gorak Shep and back.

The main attraction of going into the base camp is perhaps to see the Khumbu Ice Fall up close – and perhaps hang out with expeditions getting ready for their summit attempts, most notably in April/May. Sometimes though, the summiters cordon off parts of the area since they are afraid that you carry diseases into their camps! Still, you can have a look…

In and out of Lukla, the Kala Pattar / Everest Base Camp trek typically takes about 2 weeks.

Route 4 : Island Peak / Imja Tsho
Stunning side valley going east-west, surrounded by peaks and glaciers. It's also the way to Island Peak from where you probably have the best view of Mt. Everest all together! But Island Peak is a bit tricky. First, you need a permit from Kathmandu. Second, some previous experience in alpinism / mountain climbing is strongly advised, although you can get training on location the day before. (You’ll be using crampons, ice axes and rope.) And third, you need a guide and some gear. Can be arranged locally sometimes, but you can’t count 100% on finding what you want / need.

Island Peak aside, you can also "just" walk up to the viewpoint on Chhukhung Ri for the jaw-dropping view of the Lhotse south-face. Lhotse in itself is the second biggest mountain in the region (and 4th in the world). But its impressive south face rises 3.2 km (1.98 mi) in only 2.25 km (1.4 mi) of horizontal distance, making it the steepest face of this size in the world. Legends have been born here, legends have ended here (Tomo Cesen, Jerzy Kukuczka).

Everest High Pass Routes Descriptions:

Route (1-2) : Renjo La High Pass
Stunning views on this high pass. Most easily done from east to west: Gokyo - Renjo La - Lungden. No technical skills required in good conditions, but the western side is steep and exposed, so can be snowy and icy when cold. If you can’t see the trail when descending to Lungden, keep as much to the left as possible, avoiding the big rocks and boulders. Can be done in a (long) day’s walk. Going from east to west, the altitudes across are : 4750 m – 5345 m – 4400 m (15,600 ft – 17,500 ft – 14,400 ft).

Route (2-3) : Cho La High Pass
Probably the toughest of the 3 high-passes in the Everest region mentioned here. You might need mountaineering experience and equipment if the conditions are any less than ideal. Going from the Lobuche side, you only have to ascend the steep rocky ledge to reach the glacier while going from the Gokyo side, there is a long scree ascend exposed to falling rocks. You don’t want to spend too much time there so again, the route is easiest from east to west. The altitudes across are (east to west, Dzongla - Cho La - Tarnak) : 4830 m - 5420 m - 4730 m (15,800 ft - 17,777 ft - 15,500 ft).

Route (3-4) : Kongma La High Pass
Some beautiful turquoise lakes up there. Going down towards Lobuche, keep right (up from Lobuche, keep left!). Relatively speaking, the Kongma La pass is not too difficult in good conditions. But mind you, you'll be spending the whole day between 15,000 and 18,000 feet, so make sure you are well acclimatized! Estimated trekking time : 8-9 hours at best. The south-east to north-west direction seems the easiest one: Chhukung - Kongma La - Lobuche. Roughly 10 km on the map, altitude 4730 m – 5535m – 4930 m (15,500 ft - 18,150 ft - 16,200 ft).

-----------

If you have the time, by all means, just do all the Everest routes! I know I could easily spend a whole month or more exploring the Everest region, if I had the time. There's so many interesting little side trips and trails that run in parallel. You may have to make a tough choice though, depending on how much time you have. To help you plan your Everest trek and get as much out of the time you have as possible, here's some helpful resources you can get. Well worth a few bucks to get a map and perhaps a book stuffed with detailed side route descriptions :

Related posts, stuff you need:

Happy trekking!

I’m Trekking In The Rain

2009-09-21T21:49:00.015+05:30

I wouldn’t recommend anyone to go on a dedicated rain trek, but… Sometimes it’s actually better to take a chance with the weather in stead of staying at home just because it might rain. You never know for sure. You can still admire all the greenery, flora and fauna, breathe the fresh air, cover the miles etc. while trekking in the rain. And in the mountains it’s pretty awesome to sit on a ridge somewhere and just admire the rain clouds drifting around above and beneath you!

If you have the proper rain clothes, it’s really not that bad trekking in rain. With the invention of 3rd generation Gore-Tex® and other great clothing fabrics, you can remain reasonable dry, comfortable and warm. Let’s look at some rain trekking gear that might help you.

The good old Brolly (Umbrella)
Yes, indeed why not use an umbrella when trekking in the rain? I know, it’s tiresome to walk all day holding an umbrella in one hand, it gets in the way sometimes, it catches the wind and it can be bulky to log around with when not in use. If your backpack have side-strops though, it’s easily attachable there and won’t get much in the way. You might even be able to attach it there when you are using it, hands-free! And perhaps you can also use it as a walking stick… I have to admit though, I don’t remember ever seeing someone trekking through the rain with an umbrella. But I think it is worth considering. There’s so much effort being put into developing rain-proof clothing that remains breathable for your body. Well guess what. A plastic umbrella is 100% waterproof and 100% breathable! Just thought I’d mention it here ;-)

Rain Hat for Trekking (left)
Unless you decided to go with the brolly-option above, you need a hat. A simple fishing hat is actually really good for trekking in the rain. It’s water-resistant / water-proof and has a brim all the way round, stopping the rain not only from hitting your head but also from falling in under your clothes around the neck opening.

Rain Poncho for trekking (right)
The basic idea here is as simple as it is good. You just throw a big piece of plastic over your shoulders, and let it hang down to your feet covering your whole body and backpack. Again, leave it loose around your neck and wear a large-brim hat. That will keep the rain out and provide an escape-hatch for your body perspiration.

Backpack Rain Cover (left)
Unless you are going with the poncho which will also cover your backpack, you need a simple rain cover for your backpack as well. You can use plastic liners (even plastic garbage bags) or zip-locks to keep your clothes dry inside the backpack, but without the external rain cover, your bag will get wet, uncomfortable and heavy.

Ziploc bags (right)
Use these little waterproof baggies to keep stuff dry inside your sack. Map, iPod, camera etc., but don't forget essential clothing.

Trekking Rain Clothes
And now on to the proper rainproof clothes. I've already covered the trousers issue in a previous post (trekking trousers for Himalaya), so just click and scroll down to the last part about tough conditions.

Breathable Rain Jackets (Hard Shell)
Seriously now. If you find yourself in a monsoon-grade downpour, a hard shell rain jacket is the obvious choice. Some alternatives do exist, see below. In the old days, a rain jacket was pretty much just plastic (or leather, if you didn’t mind the weight), but now we have Gore-Tex® and all the other modern fabrics that keeps the rain out while allowing your sweat to escape. They aren’t cheap and you will still have some of the sweat stuck in your inner clothing. It’s not 100% breathable, but… It’s a lot better than plain plastic. The efficiency of a breathable rain jacket also depends a lot on what other thermal layers you are using underneath, closer to your skin.

Plain rain jacket
Like I just mentioned above, they aren’t as good as Gore-Tex in allowing your body to breathe. But plain rain jackets are a lot cheaper. They will still keep the rain out. You just have to vent it and manage your body perspiration in another way. Get one with pit-zips (zipper openings under the armpits) and also try to keep the rain jacket loose around your neck. Don’t zip it up all the way. The warm body moist will be able to drift up and out. Specially if you help it one the way sometimes, by fluffing the jacket a bit, creating some “wind”. If you are wearing a large-brim hat, rain won’t go down underneath your jacket that way. You might of course also just stop under a shelter, take off your rain jacket and ventilate it a bit from time to time.

Make sure the size is big enough to wear a fleece / sweater underneath. There's not really any insulation in this jacket, except for its wind-stopper capabilities.

Soft shell Jackets
Soft shell jackets are becoming increasingly popular for trekking. Although they are water-resistant, they aren’t water-proof. They will keep you dry during a small rain shower, but not if you are trekking in heavy rain. Why so popular? They are lightweight, 100% windproof, very breathable and give some thermal insulation as well. Not bad, ey!

Paramo / Snugpak Jackets
While technically speaking these jackets are not super water-proof, they are actually some of the driest jackets you can get! Hard to understand perhaps, but many trekkers will attest to this. As long as it’s not a very hard rain there’s a-fallin’, as long as you’re not sitting down in a puddle, this jacket will keep you dry. It uses a “pump liner” which will actually suck out moisture from your clothing. I’ve heard that if you pull a Paramo hood over your wet hair, the liner will actually draw moisture away from your hair until it is dry! So the whole system is the reverse of what people traditionally conceive of as water-proof. It is water-propellant!

As with other breathable rain jackets, you’ll need to get your layering right underneath. The down-side is that the Paramo is generally a bit heavy to carry. It also tend to be quite warm when you exert yourself, which is good for high altitude and winter trekking (~4000 meters, 13,000 ft) but less so for walking up and down the lower foothills.

Great warming power - highly windproof - water propellant! No wonder that the "Pro Force Snugpak Sleeka Elite" featured here, has become standard military use in the British Armed Forces.

Pile/Pertex Jackets
And finally a word on the Pile – Pertex system, which is often compared to Paramo jackets – but it’s not exactly the same. While Paramo is very much about keeping you dry, the PP system is more about heat retention, regardless of wetting. The pile/pertex jackets spread the moisture over a large surface and relies on body heat to move the moisture out, but the fabric itself doesn't pull the moisture through to the outside like the Paramo pump liner described above.

Anorak / Smock
for those of you who don't know what an anorak or a smock is, it's basically a jacket without the front zipper. Some might have a small top zipper, but not the full length thing. You'll have to pull it over your head to wear it. The advantage of getting rid of the front zipper is that, theoretically at least, it can give a little better wind/water-proof'ness, since the zipper is usually the weakest point in the jacket - except for the hand-body-neck openings of course! Another nice thing with the anorak is that you can have a big map pocket in front.

<-- Choose / buy anorak / smock here

Staying extra warm on a trek

2009-09-20T23:43:00.013+05:30

Besides your main trekking clothes, the jacket, trousers and thermal layering, there’s a few extra goodies you can bring to keep warm and comfortable on your trek - not to mention avoiding hypothermia and frostbite if you are going high altitude / winter trekking.

Trekking Gloves / Mittens / Mitts
When do you need gloves for trekking in the Himalayas?

Early mornings and high altitude is a cold combination. Especially in the winter months from November to February. Outside this season you can make do without gloves, although they might still be comfortable when it is most cold.

Just about anything will do, but the warmest solution is always to wear mittens. If you need to use your fingers for camera etc., even finger-gloves will get in the way. The simple solution is to combine the wooly fingerless gloves with mittens that you take off when you need your fingers. This way will give you the absolute best way of keeping your hands warm!

Trekking Hat
Like the saying goes: If your hands are cold, put on another hat! This is because a big part of your body’s heat loss actually comes from your head. Like with the gloves, a hat can do wonders for your body heat on a cold, winter morning in the mountains. And for staying warm during sleep, a soft beanie hat or a balaclava over your head is essential.

The balaclava is by far the warmest and if you are trekking/sleeping in very cold conditions, this is the one you'll get to love! (And you'll look like someone from the ATF!) Personally I just go with the beanie and never go trekking in the Himalayas without it. Any brand will do fine, although the ICEBREAKER trekking hats have a reputation second to none. Made of fine Merino wool, they are itch-free while providing all the benefits of wool. The only material that keeps its insulating properties while wet. Hail to the Merino sheep! Check it out here -->

Trekking Socks
Last but not least, it’s important to take good care of your feet on a trek. They are doing a lot of the work after all! Staying warm is the most essential quality, but cushioning your feet when walking on the rough Himalayan trails is another important aspect. It is also basic knowledge that wearing at least two pairs of socks gives you the most comfort, help to stay dry and to avoid blisters.

I usually wear a thin polypropylene or nylon sock on the inside and a pair of COOLMAX thermal sock on the outside. Perfect for the Himalayan conditions! And then a spare pair of COOLMAX that I only use when sleeping. The day-socks tend to get a bit smelly and it can be hard to find washing –and specially drying- opportunities when you are on the move in the high Himalayas. I’d say bringing 3 pairs is a good compromise when at the same time trying to go lightweight.

Thermal Underwear & Layering for Trekking

2009-09-19T14:15:00.016+05:30

Thermal underwear can be your best friend on a trek! It's very lightweight and provide a lot of extra warmth anythime you need it. There's a few options, basically between the thin Polartec-stuff and the thicker wool/fleece stuff. Have a look here:

A set of polypropylene or Polartec underpants + undershirt can come in handy under pretty much any conditions. During daytime trekking when "real thermals" are too hot, or during cold nighttime. Good trekking underwear is important because it is the fabric closest to your skin. For trekking in the (extended) cold season in the Himalayas, October to March, a set of thermal underwear beneath your trekking trousers and trekking jacket is highly recommended to counter the cold, high-altitude conditions.

And if you are going high-altitude above 4000 meters / 13,500 ft or so - and plan to be there for a few days or more - you'll need thermal underwear all year round in the Himalayas.

By all means, DO NOT go trekking in a cotton t-shirt. I know local people in Nepal and India swear by them and street vendors are pushing you hard to buy them, but on the trekking trail you will sweat and cotton quickly becomes wet - and stays that way. It sticks to your body and besides being uncomfortable and more heavy, you increase the risk of catching a cold. Be nice to your body and get proper underwear.

Polypropylene (left) or Polartec (right).

Both materials are very thin, but still providing good extra warmth for your body, while allowing it to breathe.

and matching undershirts

Polypropylene (left) vs. Polartec (right)

Thermal layering trousers/pants (tights)

And for dedicated trekking in the cold season, November to February, you need thermal layering beneath your normal trekking clothes. Even during daytime trekking, it gets cold above the 3000 meters / 10,000 ft marker.

To keep it simple, let's look at wool vs. fleece thermals. We all know that wool feels warm and stays insulating when wet. And that it can be itchy. It absorbs water so wool will become more heavy when you are sweating. Synthetic fibers, basically being plastic fibers, don't absorb water, and so stays more lightweight when wet. But for thin tights, it's not much weight we are talking about in the first place. So wool is totally acceptable. But it's itchy!? Not necessarily. There's a certain wool called Merino which is much finer, and too small to irritate your skin. Merino wool from the Icebreaker company is really state of the art and loved by many trekkers. Just ask around.

Wool (left) or fleece (right)?
The choice is yours!

And yes, I actually used the word "love" about a sheep hair products! All hail to the sheep! Once you have your proper trekking underwear, also check out my trekking trousers / pants recommendations here.

Trekking Trousers for the Himalayas

2009-09-18T14:48:00.014+05:30

When deciding on trekking trousers for the Himalayas, there’s a lot to choose from. Loose and baggy or tight fit? How much do you need your trekking pants to be wind-proof and water-proof? Do you go with warm trousers or use lightweight trousers combined with a thermal base layer? Gore-Tex® hardshell or more breathable soft shell? And what about the zip-off-into-shorts style trousers? There are so many types of trekking trousers. What’s best? And what’s actually necessary?

But let’s keep it simple and have a look at some of the best trekking trousers out there. For 20 bucks or so, you can get a pair of normal plastic rain trousers. They'll be water- and wind-proof, but neither warm, comfortable, durable or very practical. So what else is out there:

Regular Hiking Trousers

For non-extreme trekking in the Himalayas, you can usually get away with a pair of conventional cotton-nylon hiking/trekking trousers. They are not warm, but combined with thermal underwear they’ll do the trick and allow you to adjust clothing as the temperature varies with altitude.

Here are a few good options. The first is the Royal Robbins Bivy, trail-ready trousers. A simple, durable, comfortable and flexible design. Also wind-proof and water-resistant with zipper-locked pockets. Second one is for those who prefer the baggy trousers. They are super-lightweight (6 oz, 170g!) and still wind-proof. And third is the zip-off trousers that allow you to turn trousers into shorts on the warmer low-altitude parts of the trail.

Himalaya Trekking Trousers

Moving into the more advances trekking trousers, there are some really nice options making use of modern fabrics. I can’t say enough praises for the Schoeller Dryskin fabric. It is very lightweight, stretches to fit your legs in all situations and deals very well with wet conditions. Hard to explain really. When they get wet it doesn’t feel like anything special. Like your skin, it just dries up again quickly somehow. Getting a bit wet doesn’t matter anymore!

Personally I have the summer versions from Mammut (3 pairs!) but haven’t been able to find them online. But there’s some similar ones here on the right. Number 1 and 2 using the Schoeller-Dryskin, number 3 using Gore-Tex. All really good for tough Himalayan conditions, exerting yourself uphill in cool conditions.

Trousers for tough conditions

If you're trekking in the Himalayas during the monsoon season from June to August (May and September also see rain sometimes), or if you're crossing high-passes and moving through snow (typically December to February), you should take advantage of the newest material and techniques to keep yourself comfortable and dry in snow and rain. Something like either the Cloudveil soft shell pant, the Arc'teryx Sidewinder or Beta AR pants. They are all made of breathable Gore-Tex material, have build-in gaiters (covering your boots to prevent snow getting into your feet) and zippered pockets to keep your stuff inside and the weather outside.

Best Warm Trekking Jackets

2009-09-16T16:41:00.008+05:30

When it comes to warm trekking clothes, don’t just think about the daytime trekking in the nice sunshine and warm weather. You also need to think about the night-time at high altitude, when you are sitting/lying still and when it is most cold. If it’s your first time in the Himalayas, remember that this is high altitude and it gets colder than below. On my first Himalaya trek, I was shivering all night at 4700 meters – and that was summer time in a big sleeping bag! So here I’ll write my recommendations based on experience. I’ll look at 3 kinds of trekking jackets:

(1) Down jackets
(2) Hard shell trekking jackets
(3) Soft shell trekking jackets

Evening/Nighttime : The Down Jacket

For cold and windy trekking afternoons and evenings, and for trekking in wind/snow conditions, a good down jacket is really a no-brainer. They are super light-weight and have the best insulation - the ultimate warmth to weight ratio. And they are just damn comfortable to slip into! It sucks being cold when you are trying to have a good time, doesn’t it?

How do you choose a good down jacket?

(1) Decide if you want a down jacket with a hood or not. They come both with fixed hoods, detachable hoods and collar-only. I go without a hood altogether, just a separate cap, but for dedicated winter / snow / tough-weather trekking, a hood is a really good thing – most of your body’s heat loss comes from your head!

(2) Make sure the quality is ok. The stitchings are important. Cheap, fake (Chinese) down jackets just breaks open when rubbing against your backpack and when in general use. It will last you throughout your trek alright, but you’ll need a new one next year. A good down jacket is worth the money.

(3) All proper down jackets are graded by their fill power. Typically a number in the 5-800 range. What’s fill power? It tells you how many cubic-inches an ounce (28g) of down can fill. The higher the number, the better the warmth-to-weight ratio will be.

(4) Fill material. For a down jacket – guess what - it’s down! Goose down or duck down. But there’s also some feathers in it, and perhaps synthetic fibres. Try getting at least a 9-to-1 ratio of down-to-feathers. And avoid the fake rubbish filled with feathers. It’s heavy!

North Face, Helly Hansen, Marmot and Arc'teryx makes some of the best down jackets. Admittedly, you pay a bit extra for the logo. (To be honest, an attraction to some of us!) But more importantly, you are sure to get an amazing and very reliable down jacket! Here are some good options:


Men's down jacket North Face 700 cu in No hood	Men's down jacket Helly Hansen 700 cu in Detachable hood	Women's down jacket North Face 700 cu in No hood	Women's down jacket Mountain Hardwear 650 cu in Detachable hood

Daytime : The Trekking Jacket

Daytime trekking in the Himalayas is usually not cold, the weather mostly being quite comfortable. And while your down jacket is needed for evening/nighttime and rest periods, you don’t want to be wearing it while trekking in daytime – unless you’re in a blizzard at 6000 meters or so! Sorry to say it, but you’re probably going to need another trekking jacket for daytime. In winter season you’ll need your daytime jacket from about 2-3000 meters (6,600-10,000 ft) and up, in summer season you won’t need it before passing the 4000 meters (13,000 ft) mark.

What should you look for when choose a trekking jacket?

• It’s primarily for stopping wind.
• Secondary for keeping out rain.
• Should also be breathable (good ventilation) for your body sweat to escape.
• And give a bit of insulation to keep you warm enough when needed.
• Get one that’s durable.
• Preferably being lightweight.

Ok, now the perfect daytime trekking jacket doesn’t exist. But you can get some pretty good ones still. The traditional way to go around it, I suppose, is wearing some sort of windbreaker / rain jacket on the outside, and a warm fleece jacket / sweater on the inside. That’s usually referred to as a hard shell jacket. Using the newest generation of Gore-Tex® or eVent® clothing allows for some breathability, so you won’t get soaking wet from your own body perspiration.

Gore-Tex® was a giant revolution in hard shell design, and with “pit zips” (zippers that runs under the armpits of a jacket) you can now get some very good hard shell trekking jackets. If the weather gets nasty, there's really no substitute for a hard shell trekking jacket. But hard shells tend to be a bit stiff and make hiss-hiss sounds when moving around. And although they are labeled "breathable", don't expect to walk around completely dry when you are on a hard, uphill trek. But you'll dry up faster after it's done. And if you want to walk in real rain, you'll want to bring one. Here are some of the best hard shell jackets and wind-stopper fleece jackets:


Men's trekking jacket Arc'teryx Gore-Tex	Women's trekking jacket Arc'teryx Gore-Tex	Men's fleece jacket North Face	Women's fleece jacket North Face

Click to check out all the details...

But for a typical Himalaya trek outside the rain season, I would recommend going with a soft shell jacket. It is more breathable than the Gore-Tex® / eVent® options and also more comfortable to wear during a no-rain / light-rain daytime trek. And when you have a pack on your bag and are going up, breathability is a big issue. You’ll sweat! The soft shells are also more versatile jackets that are good to use for non-trekking activities in a wide range of temperatures and conditions. A couple of good options here, all highly breathable, wind- and water resistant and all have been awarded top honours...:


Men's soft shell Nylon, 30 oz / 840 g Marmot	Women's soft shell Nylon, 29 oz / 800 g Marmot	Men's soft shell Hooded, 20 oz / 575 g Arc'teryx	Women's soft shell Hooded, 19 oz / 530 g Arc'teryx

Staying Warm While Trekking

2009-09-16T16:37:00.009+05:30

After I wrote about all-season trekking on the Annapurna, I realized that some tips on how to stay warm and how to stay dry on a trek might be useful. The two are related, of course. Staying dry is an important part of staying warm while trekking. And staying warm is important if you want to :

(1) be comfortable and enjoy
(2) avoid common cold and general sickness
(3) avoid hypothermia and frostbites

Hypothermia and frostbites are hardly ever encountered on a normal Himalayan trek. You either have to do some pretty extreme trekking or just be very unlucky. Like falling into a river and loosing your orientation or something like that. And frostbites only occur in – frost! Like when you are walking in snow/ice conditions. Just stick your feet in a cold, but running river and the frost will go away, brrrrr!

Even in these worst-case scenarios, if you are properly prepared you will be fine. With warm trekking clothes and some basic boyscout knowledge, you can stay warm and continue trekking after recovering yourself.

5 tips on staying warm while trekking:

If you are cold from sitting down or if you wake up early and are cold in bed or in your sleeping bag, just get up and walk yourself warm! If you are really freezing and can get yourself to a lodge or set up camp, do that. But don't jump into your sleeping bag before you are warm! And if this is not an option…

(1) Get out of the wind. Either build or find a natural wind-shield.

(2) Make a fire. Not allowed in many trekking areas, but in case you really need it... I always keep a pack of waterproof matches and a stormproof Zippo lighter in my little first-aid bag. But be careful if you want to dry your wet trekking clothes over the fire. It rarely works well and you risk setting your clothes on fire instead!

(3) Drink hot liquids. Bring a thermos bottle and fill it up with hot water in the trekking lodges. Of course 1 liter of water is 1 kg extra weight to carry – just bring it when you think you might need it. You can always empty it out if the weight is giving you problems.

(4) Preserve mutual body heat. If you are not alone, snuggle up together! This is the most efficient way to stay warm. If you are a couple, enjoy it! If not, put your shyness aside. In case of emergency, it’s a necessity.

(5) And the last and best tip – JUST BRING PROPER WARM TREKKING CLOTHES! The most important piece of trekking clothing is your jacket. Preferably go with a down jacket and perhaps also a fleece jacket + wind breaker. Depending on the circumstances of your trekking route, season etc. choose some good and warm footwear, socks, boots, trekking trousers, thermal underwear, gloves/mints, a scarf and a cap/hat - unless your jacket provides a hood. That’s about it. But make sure you have an extra, dry shirt to sleep in at night. And you can also consider using a waistcoat for extra warmth.

To get the best trekking clothes for staying warm, check my recommendations on:

Choosing a warm jacket for trekking (Always use)
Trekking trousers (Always use)
Thermal layers trekking clothes (Always use)
Staying extra warm with gloves, hat and wool socks (Special)
Gear for trekking in rain (Special)
Gear for trekking in snow/ice (Special)

Annapurna Posters & Picture Gallery

2009-09-14T04:56:00.010+05:30

After starting to write about Annapurna trekking the other day, I thought it would be interesting to show some pictures from Annapurna. So here’s a little collection of Annapurna posters and pictures from the various Annapurna treks.

What better way to motivate yourself for a trek than hanging a large poster on you office or living room wall? To inspire you to remember the true values of life! And if you have already been there, what better way to remember the trek -- and entice friends to ask you to tell them some of your impressive trekking stories!

That’s why I’ve collected some of the best Annapurna posters I could find. All these Annapurna pictures here are available as large prints and large posters. Because these impressive pictures should be seen large -- not just on a computer screen! If you want to buy any of these posters from the Annapurna Himalayas, just click the link below the posters.

Black&White Picture of Annapurna IV (left peak, 7500m / 25,000ft) &
Annapurna II (right peak, 7900m / 26,000ft) in March.
--> Get this photo as a print / large poster HERE! <--

Poster: A young woman captivated by the huge Annapurna Range in
the morning light, from a boat on Phewa Lake, Pokhara.
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 18x22" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Poster: Mt. Machhapuchhre, "the fishtail mountain", (7000m, 23,000ft)
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 24x32" - 48x72" - 96x144" (that's 8x12 ft / 2.4x3.6 meters!)
And as framed fine art : 18x22" - 31x39"

Poster: Trekker on the Annapurna Trail, silhouetted by the landscape,
backdropped by snowcapped peaks!
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 25x31" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Poster: Snow covered forest on the Jomson Trek on
Annapurna Circuit, close to Jomsom
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 25x31" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Poster: A trekker have reached Manang and is now admiring the mighty
Gangapurna (7450m, 24,500ft) on what appears to be a summer day.
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 25x31" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Poster: Dawn light on Lamjung Himal (7000m, 23,000ft) on the Annapurna Trek
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 25x31" - 31x39"

Poster: Man walking down from Annapurna Base Camp into the clouds!
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 18x22" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Poster: Sunset over Annapurna II (7900m / 26,000ft)
Available in poster sizes : 18x24" - 30x40" - 36x48" - 48x64"
And as framed fine art : 25x31" - 31x39" - 39x49"

Hope you enjoyed these Annapurna posters. You can buy any of these pictures as a poster by clicking on the size links.

Annapurna: Seasons for Trekking

2009-09-11T23:20:00.013+05:30

What’s the best time to go trekking on the Annapurna Circuit, Base Camp and Annapurna Sancturary?

Well, here’s the amazing thing. You can actually go trekking in Annapurna all year round! The different seasons do make a difference. In the winter season it’s largely dry and cold on the Annapurna and in the summer season you get rain showers on part of the trek – but not the whole trek and not all the time! The seasons in between, October-November and March-April are generally regarded the best season for trekking the Annapurna. The weather is most clear, best views, and mostly free of rain and snow. It’s all about the weather on the Annapurna.

Annapurna in Nepal is one of the most awesome trekking regions in the world. You get really high up and close to the 8000+ meter Annapurna I and there is good trekking infrastructure and lodges all the way. No strict need for bringing camping gear, although you can choose to do so - more about that below. You can hire porters and/or guides for a reasonable amount, but you don’t necessarily need them. You can trek the Annapurna alone if you want.

I will write more about trekking in the Annapurna region in general, since it’s such a fantastic trek with a lot of options for side-trips etc. But for this blog post, I will limit myself to writing about the different seasons on the Annapurna. What do you need to know and bring when going this or that time of year.

The best guide book for trekking the Annapurna
(NEW EDITION!):
If you are going without a (human) guide, let this one do the job!

ANNAPURNA IN OCTOBER / NOVEMBER

October is the absolute high-season for trekking on the Annapurna. Why? October usually has very clear weather conditions, allowing for the best views of the Annapurna mountains. The downside is that the trekking trail can get a bit crowded with other trekkers. Not really a problem, just don’t expect to be alone on the trail. If you want to avoid the worst “rush hour traffic”, just set out early in the morning, before everyone else.

How cold does it get on Annapurna in October / November?

I don’t know the exact temperature, but when you get above 10,000 ft / 3,500 meters it’s often perfect trekking conditions during the daytime. Some people even cross the 17,700 ft / 5,400 meter Thorung La high pass in shorts and t-shirt! -- But I’d advice you to at least have a good fleece jacket handy – be sure to get one with inside wind-protection, like this one from North Face: Male / Female. They are hard to come by in Kathmandu’s cheap-o trekking shops. In the late afternoons, evenings and early mornings it does get rather chilly when you are up in altitude. A lightweight down jacket is not a must for this season, but can be really comfortable slipping into when you are not walking! Have a look at recommended trekking jackets here. And more tips on how to stay warm here.

Towards the end of November, snow conditions start to be a concern. Snowfall can occur and the high pass can close down for a few days if there is heavy snowfall. But it usually opens up again quickly, a few days or so. This is time to consider how to stay extra warm by taking good care of your head, hands and feet. Is it necessary with a sleeping bag for Annapurna treks in October/November? Not strictly, but... definitely worth considering. It will add some comfort.

ANNAPURNA IN DECEMBER / JANUARY / FEBRUARY

The good news about trekking the Annapurna during winter season is that the weather conditions are still very clear. Mostly. Same or better than Oct-Nov. The bad news is that snow is more likely to make difficulties for you. But also fun! Check the post with snow & ice trekking tips here to make your winter trek possible. With the right preparation, this is the best time for Annapurna!

December can still be snow-free or only have light snow, that’s not unusual. Makes for a good option if you just want to avoid the big trekking crowds! January and February are more likely to see days with high snow. I’ve been there in early February and it was quite doable. But from what we were told, the week before there were snow everywhere. The only tricky thing is the Thorung La pass. It can be closed for days. You might want to give extra consideration to hiring a guide / porter to help you over the pass during this season. One or two trekking poles can also be of some help here. Even built in compass and thermometer is standard fare for trekking poles today!

But with good trekking footwear, warm clothes, a comfy sleeping bag and some attention and luck with the weather, you can still make excellent use of the trekking trails on Annapurna. And in case of severe snow, you just have to be ready to “camp” in one of the trekking lodges for a few days until it’s over. Bring a good book! ( -- The obvious choices for Annapurna being Herzog's classic account or Bonnington's revolutinary account! Click links for free sneak peek inside.)

ANNAPURNA IN MARCH / APRIL

Still cold when you get high up, still chances of snow, but nothing that will stop you anymore. Just adds to the beauty! March-April is also called the ‘half-season’ or the ‘second high season’. The climate starts to get warmer, specially on the lower parts of the trekking trail, but it can also mean more hazy weather. You should still be able to get some stunning views of all the Annapurna peaks etc.

Clothing for Annapurna etc: Bring both shorts/t-shirts and long thermal layering underwear and a warm jacket. Perhaps consider getting zip-off trousers /shorts and a fleece + Goretex jacket. And I'd still recommend a sleeping bag for Annapurna in March/April unless you are one of those persons trying to set a track record by doing the whole Circuit in a week or so.

Black&White Picture of Annapurna IV (left peak, 7500m / 25,000ft) &
Annapurna II (right peak, 7900m / 26,000ft) in March.
--> Get this photo as a print / large poster HERE! <--

ANNAPURNA IN MAY / JUNE

May is usually also a good month for trekking the Annapurna. This is the pre-monsoon / early monsoon season. The climate gets hotter and the distant views start to fade in more hazy weather. Once you get higher, above the tree line and into the northern side of the Annapurna Himalayas, the conditions are really excellent though.

As June comes knocking on the door, the chance of rain increases. But his year (2009), Nepal hardly saw a drop of rain in June. It’s varies from year to year. Just be prepared. You can usually spot the rain before it comes, so plenty of time to get out a rain cover or head for the nearest shelter.

Rain showers usually don’t last long and mostly comes in the afternoon when the sun starts to head down. If you are properly prepared, it shouldn't be a problem. Some tips on rain trekking here.

ANNAPURNA IN JULY / AUGUST

Ok, this is high monsoon season and it will almost certainly rain. Although with all this global climate change, who knows anything for sure anymore?!

Even if it does rain, there are good reasons to go trekking on the Annapurna in July/August.

(1) Manang, the high part of the Annapurna Circuit trek, is in the rain shadow! One of the few places in Nepal where it hardly rains this time of year!
(2) There’s plenty of lodges and shelters.
(3) There’s not that many other people around
(4) The landscape is at its most green this time of year.
(5) In the lower parts of the trek, it will probably rain. But often not until 2-3 o’clock in the afternoon.

All this said, you’ll want to bring your trekking rain gear. And keep an eye on leeches and landslides. Leeches can be annoying, but are harmless. They are only found on the lower parts of the trek. Landslides/mudslides are also annoying but not always as harmless, unfortunately :-(

ANNAPURNA IN SEPTEMBER

This is the end of the monsoon season / early post-monsoon. Trekking the Annapurna this time of year should be really good. As a matter of fact, I should have been on my way up there now! But too many family issues are holding me back this year. Bugger! Will have to wait until next year.

Why do I want to go trekking Annapurna in September?

It’s just before the main season starts, meaning fairly good trekking conditions without too many other trekkers around. I’ll have it largely to myself up there!

There’ll likely still be rain showers on the Annapurna in September. So again, remember to bring your rain trekking gear. But once you get into the rain shadow that will mostly be unnecessary. Freak storms do occur though.

A little warning: Snow can pile up on the mountains above you during monsoon. During warm afternoons this time of year, there are risks that it will collapse and fall down on the trekking trail. Specially if you are heading up in the Annapurna Sanctuary, there is an infamous stretch between the Hinku Cave and Deurali. For an hour or so, you are going right under the peak of Hinchuli, usually holding large amounts of snow. Try avoiding walking this part in the afternoon!

Happy Trekking!

Best dSLR camera for trekking

2009-09-05T09:03:00.006+05:30

If you want the best camera system for your trek, you've come to the right place here. I'll show you a couple of options for the best dSLR trekking cameras. This is the true photography aisle! Perhaps you've used compact pocket size cameras before and now ready to upgrade to get the best image quality, the best user experience! Would be nice with the ability to make poster-size prints from your trek, right? There's no way around it then. You need to get yourself a SLR camera! Just know that for trekking, the SLR cameras can be a bit awkward to carry. Not impossible either, I do it all the time. There's also a lightweight option here, at the bottom of this post.

(This is the last post of the 4-part series about finding the Best Camera for Trekking.)

Choosing the best camera for trekking
Best mini / ultra-compact camera for trekking
Best compact camera for trekking
Best dSLR camera for trekking

When it comes to SLR cameras, you also need to consider the camera system. IE, what lenses goes with the camera. The two hottest products now (September 2009) are the Canon 5D Mark II and the Nikon D700, both full-frame cameras and both manufacturers have an amazing arsenal of general purpose and specialist lenses. It’s really the battle of the giants here. The heavy-weight championship of cameras! I myself am a Canon man, but all respect to the Nikon folks as well!

The big setup (Canon)

This is the camera gear that I'm mostly using when trekking. It's a bit heavy of course, but for me it's worth the weight. Top image quality, high resolution, solid construction etc. You can get the equivalent in Nikon, here's the gear list:

Canon 5D Mark II (0.9kg, 2700$)
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L (1.0kg, 1300$)
Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L (1.4kg, 1500$)
Canon total : 3.3kg, 5500$.

-
-
-
-

Nikon D700 (1.1kg, 2300$)
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 Nikkor (0.9kg, 1900$)
Nikon 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 Nikkor (1.4kg, 48oz, 1600$)
Nikon total : 3.4kg, 5800$.

(for full details, reviews and order, click any link)

In the end it's a close call by these numbers. I'd say the advantage goes to Canon though, since it has video recording in it's camera and it has significantly more megapixels (21 over Nikon's 12) which can be useful for landscapes, while the Nikon is faster and perhaps better for action. But still, they're both great!

Any lightweight and cheap dSLR trekking cameras?

However, these cameras are pretty heavy for taking along on your trek. I can already hear a choir of trekkers asking me: Can't we get a good dSLR camera for trekking that weighs under 1 kg and costs under 1000 dollars?

The simple set-up, Canon 500D + 28mm prime lens

Yes, you can! - If I have to go extremely lightweight for a trek, while wanting some top gear, I'll go with something like this (my stuff is older models, but same idea). The Canon 500D camera (called T1i in the USA) with a fixed Canon 28mm f/2.8 Lens! Or the Nikon equivalent: The Nikon D5000camera and their 28mm f/2.8 lens.
(again, click links for more detailed info / order)

Both have very good image quality and are easy to carry, both with a weight of only 0.8kg everything included! Expect to pay around $900-950 for either set (camera + lens). Both have superb image quality: High ISO, lots of megapixels etc. Both have video recording etc. Won't go into the details here. But click on the links and there'll be more detailed descriptions and reviews.

But there’s no zoom, no wide-angle, no tele-photo…! It's just a simple prime lens?
.
That’s right! And you know what? This camera and lens gives me a good, old-fashioned joy of taking pictures! It’s no-nonsense, back-to-basics. I’m sure an old photographic grand-master like Henri Cartier-Bresson would give me a pad on my back, if he could. No fancy frills and features here. Just a man and his camera, capturing cool compositions and decisive moments! You get this advice from pro photographers a lot. Just get a good, little prime and learn to use it well! On a cropped-size-frame camera like this, the 28 mm turns into something a little less than a 50 mm lens. Good for both capturing scenery and people. Not really wildlife, unless you manage to sneak up on a yak or a snow leopard!

No, seriously. When you get back and print out your photos, you can enjoy that the whole series is taken with the same ‘expression’. Same ‘perspective’. There will be a certain consistency. So for SLR’s and lightweight demands, that will be my ideal trekking camera!

What about using the kit lens that comes with the cameras very cheap?

Well, if you must. But typical kit lenses aren't something to cheer for, I'm afraid. The quality is much better with a simple little prime lens, like the ones I mentioned.

-----

The easiest way to buy any of these dSLR cameras for your trek is to order it online - and have it delivered on your doorstep in a few days! Just click any of the above links to see more user reviews and order. You will also be supporting my blogging efforts and it won't cost you extra.

Happy trekking and happy shooting!

Best compact camera for trekking

2009-09-05T09:02:00.006+05:30

Some really good trekking camera compromise solutions here. Compared to the ultra-compact cameras, they provide extra zoom power, better image quality, creative flexibility etc, while not getting too heavy or too expensive. There are so many interesting compact trekking cameras in this “prosumer”, mid-weight category that it’s really hard to pick just one. So I’ve picked 3 cameras here, all of which have some very strong points. All of them weigh about a pound (half kg), making them very interesting cameras for trekking.

(This is post 3 out of 4 about finding the Best Camera for Trekking.)

Choosing the best camera for trekking
Best mini / ultra-compact camera for trekking
Best compact camera for trekking
Best dSLR camera for trekking

Leica M8.2 (or the M9 when it comes out)

The Leica brand is in a class by itself. The “magic Leica feel” is hard to pin down in a few words - the way it renders your pictures, the way it handles, is superb. But the price tag is not for everyone: The Leica M8.2 costs about $6000! It weighs about 600g / 20 oz, takes up 5.5 x 3.2 x 1.5 inch, takes various different lenses (M bayonet type), does not have auto-focus and delivers 10 megapixels up to 2500 ISO. The whole 'megapixel thing' actually isn't really important anymore. As long as the camera has 8 MP or more, it's enough in 99% of cases - and it's all the other quality parameters that matters. And the Leica delivers!

Like I said, it's pricy and you have to have / get lenses to put on. But what a dream machine for the photo afficionado!
Buy it HERE, Now!

Caonon PowerShot G11
A little photographic power-house here, much more affordable. Good professional image quality and a reasonable zoom that allows you to shoot the wide scenery (28mm) and zoom in on faces and details (140mm). Canon's series from ...G9, G10 have been very popular for mid-range cameras among serious photography folks! It's now been improved with the G11 which offers better image quality and less megapixels! Yes, believe me. It's all for the best!

Specifications:

Weight : 13.2 oz / 375 g
Size : 112 x 76 x 48 mm / 4.4 x 3.0 x 1.9 inch

Lens : 28-140mm (5x)
Pixels : 10 MP
ISO : 80-3200

Other features : video recording, auto/manual focus, 1.1 fps, RAW/JPG mode, tilt/swiwel LCD, Li-Ion batteries & built-in charger, built-in flash and also takes AA batteries which can be charged by solar charger (not included, but great for trekking!)

Released : August 2009

Price : About $500

Surprisingly good quality here, easy to carry, very flexible and still affordable! - Buy it HERE, Now!

Canon PowerShot SX20
This camera will give you a lot of zoom power to play with. It goes up to a staggering 560mm! The only one of these 3 cameras that can be used if you are in to wildlife photography. It's a bit more bulky and it doesn’t have the same image quality as the other two mentioned above. But if you don’t plan on making large poster-size prints, this camera will do the job very well. Super zoom away!

Specifications:

Weight : 21 oz / 600 g
Size : 128 x 88 x 87 mm / 5.0 x 3.5 x 3.4 inch

Lens : 28-560mm (20x), f/2.8-5.7
Pixels : 12.1 MP
ISO : 80-1600

Other features : video recording, pop-up flash, 0.7fps, uses AA batteries (NiMH or solar charged!)

Released : August 2009

Price : About $400

The "Swiss army knife" of trekking photography. It does it all, not as good as a bunch of specialist tools, but a good all-round problem solver! -
Buy it HERE, Now!

Runners-up: Fujifilm Finepix S100fs and the Ricoh GR Digital III (new).

The easiest way to buy one of these compact cameras for your trek is to order it online - and have it delivered on your doorstep in a few days! Just click any of the above links to see more user reviews and order. You will also be supporting my blogging efforts and it won't cost you extra.

Happy trekking and happy shooting!

Best mini / ultra-compact camera for trekking

2009-09-05T08:57:00.006+05:30

A couple of years ago, I wouldn’t have been caught dead recommending a mini-camera to anyone. But these days, I see how slick they are! An inch or less thick! Ultra compact cameras, perfect for trekking! And the pictures that comes out of them? Spot on all the time! Most can do good video, have image stabilization and zooms from fairly wide to fairly long. They don't provide the best image quality or the most 'creamy look', but for lightweight trekking with a camera, these mini cameras have a big advantage in being so small!

(This is post 2 out of 4 about finding the Best Camera for Trekking.)

Choosing the best camera for trekking
Best mini / ultra-compact camera for trekking
Best compact camera for trekking
Best dSLR camera for trekking

-

Leica D-Lux 4
Here's a camera I'd love to have as my new trekking buddy! The classic Leica brand's high-end digital mini-camera, it has really received some fantastic reviews for a camera in this class!

Specifications:

Weight : 8.7 oz / 248 g
Size : 109 x 56 x 27 mm / 4.3 x 2.2 x 1.1 inch

Lens : 24-60mm (2.5x), f/2.0-2.8
Pixels : 10.1 MP
ISO : 80-3200

Other features : Built-in pop-up flash, RAW/JPG mode, 2.5 fps, image stabilization, auto/manual focus.

Released : September 2008

Price : About $800 -

Some pride-of-ownership factor here. And you will enjoy every click of the button with this one!
You can buy it here!

Yep, it ain't exactly cheap for a camera in this class! But the joy every time I'd pull it out of my pocket and snap the shutter button... Oh yeah! --- But you might also want to consider the Panasonic Lumix LX3 camera as an alternative. Click the link to check it out. It's very close to being the same camera, but without the red dot marking (:the Leica name) - and it's a lot cheaper at around $500 or so! Whichever camera you buy, for extra batteries get the Panasonic ones HERE. They also fit the Leica camera and are just as good - and a lot cheaper.

Cheaper trekking camera options?

Yes, it is possible to get a good mini camera for your trek without paying that much. There's a staggering number of good mini-cameras from all the manufacturers. If I have to pick one, it will be the...:

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FS15
In close competition with similars from Sony, Nikon and Canon, this one came in on the top. For trekking it beats them with it's good wide-angle and ISO, allowing you to capture the grand scenery and even indoor scenes, while being a super slim camera at 0.9". Half the weight of the Leica, perfect for the pocket!

Specifications:

Weight : 4.2 oz / 120 g
Size : 97 x 53 x 22 mm / 3.8 x 2.1 x 0.9 inch

Lens : 29-145mm (5x)
Pixels : 12.1 MP
ISO : 80-3200

Other features : video recording, image stabilization

Released : January 2009

Price : About $170 -

Super small and lightweight, you won't miss any photo opportunities while digging your camera out from deep in your bag. This one goes in any little pocket you have!
Buy it HERE, Now!

Runners-up / alternatives :

Sony Cybershot T500
Nikon Coolpix S630
Canon Powershot A2000 and the Canon S90 (new).

The easiest way to buy one of these ultra-compact cameras for your trek is to order it online - and have it delivered on your doorstep in a few days! Just click any of the above links to see more user reviews and order. You will also be supporting my blogging efforts and it won't cost you extra.

Happy trekking and happy shooting!

What is the Best Camera for Trekking?

2009-09-01T12:15:00.008+05:30

Bringing a camera on your trekking trip is very rewarding (doh!). For me, photography is in fact a pretty big part of why I’m trekking in the Himalayas in the first place. The fantastic views in the mountains, the people I meet etc. It’s impressions that I want to capture and keep. Is it the same for you? Even if it isn’t, I’m sure you like to bring a camera on your trek, right?

So what is the best camera for trekking? I could talk about it all day, but to make it simple I've split the post up in 3 categories (+ this little intro post):

-
there'll be 2-3 recommendations in each category, so there should be something for everyone!

Why not just one camera named the best trekking camera?

It's important to realize that choosing the best trekking camera depends on your individual preferences. Do you mainly take pictures of landscapes? Portraits? Wildlife? Or a bit of everything? Do you want to make posters to hang on your wall or just look at the pictures on a computer screen? And how much are you willing and able to carry? Answer these questions and you are well on your way to making a good choice here!

If I were to describe the best trekking camera, it would be small and lightweight, while providing top image quality. It would have long battery life, a solid construction and be able to zoom from wide angle to the long tele-photo perspective - while also being dirt cheep! But the ideal trekking camera doesn’t exist. There will always be compromises to be made.

How to choose the best camera for trekking:

To simplify what can be a long and complicated search for the best trekking camera for YOU, the first thing you need to decide on is what price and weight suits you?

If you just want to do a few easy snapshots once in a while, perhaps consider one of the slick, small mini-cameras.
If you want the full range of creative possibilities and top image quality that can be printed in large poster sizes, you’ll want to go for a SLR camera. Or digital SLR, dSLR camera. These are more pricy and heavy, but for me there’s no real alternative. I want the best! Sometimes my shoulders suffer from it, as do my wallet.
A good in-between compromise could be a compact camera. They are light-weight and, if you choose the right one, gives you a very good image quality and ability to shoot a range of different subjects.

All these cameras just keep getting better and better! There’s a lot of really great cameras out there.

Next thing to consider is what do you want to take pictures of? A few quick tips here:

For landscapes - a 'wide-angle' is usually recommended. Check the cameras 'focal length' and make sure it's around 28mm or less. (Has to be the so-called "35mm equivalent number".)
For snapshots - friends and general scenery, anything in the 28-50 mm range of focal length will do fine.
For portraits - of the people you meet on the trail, 50 mm at least and preferably something like 100 mm would be good.
For wildlife - you need a long tele-photo lens here. The longer the better. A 300 mm lens is probably minimum.
For a bit of this and that - choose either a zoom lens that covers broadly or a SLR camera system with exchangeable lenses.

So, go ahead and see my recommendations of the best cameras for trekking. If you decide to buy one of them, please buy through the links I provide. You'll be supporting my blog and it won't cost you extra. Ok, the 3 categories are:

Travel on the Tibetan Plateau

2009-08-28T15:10:00.006+05:30

Situated in the rain shadow behind the Himalayas, the Tibetan Plateau is a vast expanse of open landscape, big skies and magnificent light and color. This is the Tibetan Plateau with an average altitude of 4000m. The Roof Of The World! Even road travel in Tibet is not easy. Like other places in the trans-Himalayan region, roads are often bumpy, dusty and journeys can be long and uncomfortable.

Outside of the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, hotels are very basic with a limited choice of food. The local Tibetan cousine typically offers Tsampa (ground barley) porridge, yak meat and Tibetan butter tea. However, a travel in Tibet is an adventure you will never forget. The stunning natural scenery, combined with the unique mountain culture that existed in isolation until the 1950s, are bound to make a big impression on any traveler.


Framed Poster: Tibetan Plateau, National Geographic Collection by Gordon Wiltsie, 22x18". Buy this poster now!		Framed Poster: Farmer Going Home Near Tingri, Cho Oyu and Himalayas in the Distance, Tibetan Plateau. by Tony Waltham, 22x18". Buy this poster now!

Overland tours of the Tibetan Plateau are now easily done in jeeps. You can even go on motorbike or bicycle, if your legs are up to the job! But all travels on the Tibetan Plateau have to be arranged through a registered tour agency.

The tour agency will provide a jeep, a driver and a guide. Four passengers usually fit comfortably in the jeep.

The typical drive will take you from Lhasa (Tibet) to Kathmandu (Nepal), usually via Gyantse (3950m), Shigatse (3900m), Rongphu Monastery (5000m), Mt. Everest base camp(!), and over the “Friendship Bridge” to Nepal. Then down the “Friendship Highway” to Kathmandu. You can also do the trip in the opposite direction, from Kathmandu to Lhasa.

Trips to the holy Mt. Kailash can also be arranged.


Poster (unframed): Aerial View of Snow-Capped Peaks and Mountain Lake on the Tibetan Plateau, by Keren Su, 18x24". Buy this poster now!		Poster (unframed): Aerial View of River Flowing Through Mountain Valley in the Tibetan Plateau, by Keren Su, 18x24". Buy this poster now!

Ok, that was a quick round-up of the practicalities of Tibetan Plateau Travel. I didn’t mean to scare you away from traveling to the Tibetan Plateau! In fact, it is probably more easy to make arrangement for this road trip than it is to arrange a mountain hike anywhere else in the Himalayas. It’s certainly easier to complete!

To make things more easy and comfortable, there’s a number of things you can get. Check out my list of recommended gear for Himalayan mountain road trips here.

And when you are ready to book your trip – for now perhaps just get a price quote from an agency - all you need to do is send them an email with your proposed departure date. They will help you to make all the arrangements, including visa to Tibet/China. (Visa to Nepal is more easy, you can just get it at the border when entering Nepal.)

One final little word of caution. There are some stories about people being disappointed with bad tour operators. Many travel agencies subcontract their actual Tibetan Plateau tours out to Chinese operators. That’s what you want to avoid. So when contacting the travel agency, just ask them about the tour crew. A Tibetan, rather than Chinese tour crew, is ok. In fact that’ll usually make it quite enjoyable as most Tibetans are very friendly and hospitable.

Have a great trip on across the Tibetan Plateau – and let me know how your travels went when you come back! Oh, and by the way. I take it that you have already seen the Brad Pitt movie, Seven Years in Tibet. If not, get it! Otherwise, let me suggest some reading material for your trip. Before, during or after: (click to read reviews etc.)

Trekking in the trans-Himalayas

2009-08-28T13:16:00.015+05:30

Trekking in the trans-Himalayas is like being on another planet – almost. The barren landscape, often referred to as ‘moonscape’, characteristic of the trans-Himalayas is extraordinary. Largely void of any trees, with a few grass pastures here and there, it’s just you and the mountains!

Besides the absolutely fabulous landscape, there’s another great advantage to doing a trek in the trans-Himalayas. Being just north of the main Himalayan mountain range, the trans-Himalayas are in the rain shadow during the otherwise wet monsoon months! Don’t expect it to be a 100% dry weather all the time, you can get a few showers and even the freak snow blizzard, but that’s more the exception than the rule.

If you’re interested in going, below is a quick overview of the different trans-Himalayan regions and a short note about trekking / travel possibilities. Check below, and click for more details.

Picture right: A typical trans-
Himalayan landscape with dry
hills and a chorten. This picture
is from Mustang, Nepal, and the
mountain in the back is the
7900 meter Annapurna I.

Get this picture as a 18x24" poster or as 39x49" framed fine art.

Ladakh (India)
Kinnaur-Lahaul-Spiti (India)
Dolpo / Dolpa (Nepal)
Mustang (Nepal)
Humla (Nepal)
Mugu (Nepal)
Manang (Nepal)
Tibetan Plateau (China)

- great for individual camping treks, 1-4 weeks
- drive in jeep / bike / bus, “inner line permit” needed
- stunning and remote, but at least $700 for the permit alone
- stunning, but at least $700 for the permit alone
- remote and very little visited, camping/porters needed
- remote and very little visited, camping/porters needed
- cheapest, easiest logistics (part of Annapurna Circuit)
- jeep / bike ride, but only tours organized by tour agency

Notice the Manang option I’ve highlighted. It’s really a great option, no expensive permits required and you can do most/all of it trekking from lodge to lodge. It’ll take you 2-3 weeks of walking, perhaps more. It’s amazing that not more people go there, since it’s so close to one of the “trekking highways” of the Himalayas, the Annapurna Circuit. If you just want to trek in the trans-Himalayas, Manang is a good option!

Gear for Road Trips in the (Himalayan) Mountains

2009-08-28T07:58:00.020+05:30

So you’ve got your mind set on a little mountain road trip? In the Himalayas! And you’re wondering, “is there anything special I’ll be needing for those Himalayas?”. You’ve come to the right place, I’ll tell you about my mountain road trip experiences here. You can also read about my drive across the Indian Himalayas here, or a tour of the Tibetan Plateau here.

Perhaps you’ve already done mountain road trips in the Rockies or the Alps, know what car camping is about, but never been to the Himalayas? Well, let me tell you straight away, driving on “The Roof of the World” isn’t the same as driving on a US mountain highway, going a bit off-road or zooming through the Swiss/Austrian Alps Formula-1 style. There’s the difference of the altitude and the road conditions. The Himalayas have the highest motorable roads in the world, with many high-passes well over 5,000 meters (16,500 ft). That’s higher than anywhere (road or no road) in the US Rockies or European Alps! And the Himalayan roads can be really bumpy, somewhere even hard to distinguish as a road! Landslides and rockslides regularly sweep the road away.

So why go on a road trip in the Himalayas?

The views, the landscape. Words can’t describe it. It’s like driving on the moon! With some of the highest peaks in the world surrounding you. Passing lakes and rivers. Driving up against amazing cliff walls, well above the tree line. Going through nomadic camps of yak herders once in a while.

Road trips can be great, and you don’t really need to bring that much gear. But the good thing about road trips, compared to trekking, is that you don’t have to carry everything on your back! So if you want to bring something to make your trip more enjoyable, just do it!

I should mention that what we’re talking about here is going in a 4WD Jeep or LandCruiser, something like that. But it’s also possible to drive the Himalayan roads on your bike – motorbike or bicycle! But that’s another story, here we’re talking about car road trips, right!

PS: Sorry for the little rant, let’s get to what I promised you: The Road Trip Gear List:

(scroll down the page a bit)

1. Mountain Road Trip Gear, The Essentials If you’re going on an individual road trip, there are some essentials you need to bring:
First aid kit Always have a first aid kit with you in your car anyway. But check it's there and fully equipped before you go. And don't forget to bring simple medication such as painkillers and antibiotics (food can be dubious in the Himalayas, don’t want to have an upset stomach, do we?).
Flashlight / Lantern light Self-explanatory. It get’s pretty dark out in the bushes, up on the ridges and down in the valleys.
Cell phone / Satellite phone depending on how remote you go. Cell phone coverage can be pretty thin in most great road trip places. Feel free to turn off your phone until/unless you really need it. But it’s good to have in case of emergency. If your car breaks down in the middle of nowhere, this can potentially save you life! There’s several systems to choose from, but the Iridium system phones are the only truly global phones. Here in the Himalayas, that’s what you want!
Maps + GPS GPS (Global Positioning System) devices have become standard fare over the last few years. Good to help you find your way or give your exact position in case a speedy rescue is needed. Especially for off-road adventures, where it can be difficult to find back to the main road again. Try to get one with a map display and a track logging system, like this one:
Food and water (for emergency) again you should at least carry enough emergency rations. You can probably count on eating at road side food stalls – even here in the Himalayas. But just in case you have a car breakdown, food and water to last you a day or more could come in handy. At least pick up some dried fruits, canned food, biscuits or the likes. Or consider getting dedicated emergency rations! Water purification tablets are handy to bring as well!
And don’t forget a spare tire, some tools, gasoline, cooler liquid etc for your car!
2. Mountain Road Trip Gear, Non-essentials, but... For organized road trip tours in the Himalayas, you can expect your driver/guide/crew to supply the essentials mentioned above. You might want to check to make sure though. There are some non-essential items that you don’t strictly need to increase your “chances of survival”, but they can make your road trip more enjoyable. Here are some suggestions:
A GOOD camera / lens I’m pretty sure you already have a camera – who doesn’t these days. But being a bit of a photo aficionado myself, I can’t help encourage you to get a GOOD camera. The great thing about traveling in a car is that you don’t have to worry about weight. When I head for the mountains I always have at least 2 kg of camera gear. And often it’s more like 4 kg! When I trek, I carry it on my shoulder the whole tour. Tough, but worth it! When you’re in a car, 4 kg is no worries. And remember, the high-altitude climate can make your battery life-span a lot shorter. Check here for camera tips in the Himalayas (link coming soon).
Music What’s a great road trip without great music? But driving around on the edge of civilization, there's usually no radio reception. Even if there were, there's a slim chance that they'd be playing your favorites. But here's a solution for you: Bring your iPod and get the Griffin iTrip device. It's a simple little thing that you plug into your iPod and it transmits the music over to the car radio on the FM band - and the music then comes out of the car's powerful loudspeakers! It even charges your iPod through the car cigarette lighter!! Blast through the mountains with your favorite tunes, awesome!!
Daypack One of the things I really like is stopping the car and hiking a bit away from the road or the car for a couple of hours. Explore! If you have the chance, don’t just sit in the car the whole day. Find an interesting spot, and do a quick hike away from your car. Here's a selection of backpacks /daypacks to carry food, water etc.
Lip balm and sunscreen In high altitude, the UV light is stronger and can burn your skin and lips quickly during daytime. The lip balm is also great to use while driving in dry and dusty conditions. Trust me. You don't want to leave this behind!
Sunglasses The mountain light can be harsh. Especially the strong UV lights can make your eyes tired. But besides being useful, they also makes you look really trendy for all those photos of you on the road!
3. Mountain Road Trip Gear - Getting more comfortable now Now this is stuff that’s more in the “luxury” category of Himalayan mountain road trips. Of course “luxury” is a strong word here. The roads are usually pretty bad and the lodging down-to-scraps. But nevertheless, if you like to enjoy a bit of “luxury” then why not!
Travel Pillow Days involve a lot of driving. I’ve done up to 19 hours driving in a day in the Himalayas. Ok, 6 hours were waiting time in front of an accident scene, but anyway… A pillow for snoozing in the car can make the difference between getting sleep and not. In turn making the difference between being happy or cranky. Get the simple one, or perhaps the one with all the bells and whistles.
MSR Stove / Road Trip Grill If you like good food as much as me, there’s nothing better than cooking up a tasty meal quickly out in the bush. The simple solution is a MSR stove (you might want to get a fuel bottle as well). And for a bit of luxury and gourmet in the bush, there's the Coleman Road Trip Grill as well. Bon appétit!
Backpack chairs, camping tables The chairs are easy to bring on a little hike away from the vehicle. While dinner is cooking, the tea is brewing or just the clouds drifting by, take the weight off your legs and have a comfortable seat! And for a road side lunch, the camping table fits the bill. When finished, it collapses to a thin little square to throw back in the trunk.

I hope you found something you like on this mountain road trip gear list! If you still haven't decided where to go on your road trip in the Himalayan mountains, try reading about my drive across the Indian Himalayas here, or a tour of the Tibetan Plateau here.

Enjoy your road trip!

Tips For Buying Your Trekking Backpack Online

2009-08-25T23:27:00.009+05:30

Buying a backpack used to involve heading downtown, either waiting for a bus or finding a place to park your car. Then finding suitable trekking backpack shops, then spending an entire afternoon to go from on store to another, seeing what’s available today, trying different backpacks on in the shop while trying to remember which backpack had which features etc. Then taking the decision while the store assistant is waiting for you. And finally heading over to the counter and carrying it home somehow.

Well, those days are over. It’s much easier for you now to buy your trekking backpack online. It’s convenient as hell, and so easy. Do it while keeping an eye on the kids! Do it in the middle of the night! Do it on your holiday! Do it on a brake at work! Do it while drinking your cup of morning coffee! And did I mention how easy it is? A couple of clicks rather than the hassle of running around between stores. Your new backpack will be delivered right on your doorstep!

But, you say, what about trying it on? I can’t try on my new backpack online, can I?

No, you can’t. And I have also heard the old advice about “trying on the backpack before you buy”. It’s good advice, but it doesn’t give you the ultimate truth. I’ll tell you something. Trying on a new backpack for a few minutes in a store does not even come close to the feeling you have when you are actually using your backpack in the field. Walking 5-10 hours, in rough terrain, up and down, fully loaded backpack, perhaps even for days or weeks. Even if you fill up the backpack in the store with a dummy load and walk back and forth for half an hour, it still doesn’t give you the true picture. Sad, but true. There’s only one way to find out if this is the perfect backpack for you. Buy it and start using it on your treks!

There’s 3 other advantages to buying your trekking backpack online that I’d just like to mention before the final buying tips:

The Selection. Your local backpack store will always have a limited inventory. They can’t afford to keep a couple of hundred different backpacks ready for someone to buy. Online shops, on the other hand, have a much larger customs base and can have a staggering inventory in a remote storage facility.
The Price. Online shops don’t need expensive downtown shops with huge storefront windows. They can reduce their overhead business costs much more than the brick-and-mortar shops. This means lower prices for you!
You need to pay shipping, yes. But you’ll save the cost of transporting yourself back and forth! Plus you’ll save much of your valuable time.

Are you ready to buy your trekking backpack online now?
- If yes, here’s a few tips to make sure things go smoothly:

Always choose a good brand. Branded backpack manufacturers know what they are doing and have earned their reputation. They ‘re using the best materials and have more experience in their field that you or I will ever have!
Measure your torso length and choose a backpack that fits. All backpacks can be adjusted within a certain range, like 17-20 inch or so. Measure along your spine from the protruding bone in your neck (around the edge of your shirt) to the top of your hip bones, see illustration.
Check for guarantee and “satisfaction guarantee”. Most online backpack stores also have “satisfaction guarantee” so you can return your backpack if you change you mind – money back and no questions asked.
Use other people’s recommendation. Take advantage of the ease with which you can connect with other people online and see what they have to say. Like you are doing now, here, on my blog!

Here is my list of recommended trekking backpacks. And yes, just click on the links and you can buy your trekking backpack online here! Did I mention: It is so easy!

5 Best Backpacks for Trekking the Himalayas

2009-08-24T16:40:00.019+05:30

The backpack is one of the most important pieces of gear for a successful trekking trip. Buy a good backpack and it will be a delight to carry. The best backpacks will put the weight on your hips rather than on your shoulders. The best backpacks will secure your load and leave you with good flexibility and balance. The best backpacks allow easy access to pockets and compartments. The best backpacks allow you to move your arms and legs around freely. The importance of a good backpack can really make or brake your trip!

There is an overwhelming range of different backpacks meeting all kinds of needs. It’s great with such a big selection, but it can be a bit daunting to look through all the catalogues, read reviews and, as I have done, spent days running back and forth between different stores, trying to find the perfect backpack for the occasion. So to make it simple, I have picked my “favorite five” backpacks for trekking in the Himalayas. These are all top quality backpacks from good industry brand names and they should all last you at least a good 10-15 years!

Best Backpack, internal frame
Best Backpack, external frame
Best Daypack / small size backpack
Best Backpack for children and small women
Best Baby Backpack

.
And the winners are...

Best Backpack (Internal Frame) : Osprey Aether 60
The Osprey brand really has a good reputation, so no surprises here. The “Aether 60” pack carries a medium to heavy load really well. 15 kg / 35 lbs easily and up to 20-25 kg if needed. It has removable straps underneath for attaching tent / tripod / sleeping bag. Internal/external "straightjacket" compression system (3 strips) for tightening the load firmly. Excellent suspension and ventilation system and the flexibility characteristic for internal frame backpacks.

The Aether is light enough - and its ventilated back panel cool enough - for a quick summer weekend on the steamy Appalachian Trail. Come October, it has the capacity and weight-bearing ability to handle a week in the Rockies.

-Outside Magazine

This backpack is an excellent choice for small camping treks in the Himalayas or even longer “tea-house treks” without need for food and camping equipment. It also allows you to go exploring a few days off the tea-trail as well.

Internal frame backpacks have become hugely popular in recent years. They consolidate the load into a single, body-hugging unit, making it easier to maintain your balance on uneven terrain. At the same time, proper packing is very important. To distribute the weight properly, you should pack your heaviest items close to your back and in the middle portion of the backpack.

Size: 60 liters / 3700 cubic inches
Weight : (1.8 kg) / 3.9 lbs
Comes in 3 sizes, S, M & L
Fits torso lengths : 16-18½" (S), 18-20½" (M), 20-22½" (L)

Best Backpack (External Frame) : Kelty Tioga 5000

This backpack is an excellent choice for longer treks where you need to carry a big load. 30-35 kg maximum, but also comfortably carries lesser loads. Adjustable carry harness and removable sleeping bag compartment. Zippered side-pockets and top-pocket allows very easy access.

The external frame (usually cheaper than IF backpacks) allows you to walk more upright than with an internal frame, even with heavy loads. This allows you to look straight ahead, and not miss any of the stunning mountain landscape while walking!

Your packaging style is less critical. The frame will always transfer the load to your hips! With load-lifter straps, belt stabilizers and the excellent ventilation characteristic of an external frame backpack, makes this the perfect choice for carrying heavy loads more comfortably.

Size: 82 liters / 5000 cubic inches
Weight : 2.5 kg / 5.8 lbs
Fits torso lengths : 16-19"

Best Daypack / Small Backpack : High Sierra Cirque 30 Pack

Very lightweight daypack made of water resistant material. Excellent for shorter trips of a few days, or a week or so if you keep it simple and travel light, as I like to do. Also good if you’re going on “tea-house” treks, without need for all the camping gear.

This is a daypack with proper waist straps - many daypacks merely hang the load on your shoulders. Also, it’s shoulder straps are slightly separated, making it more comfortable than many other daypacks.

Deep side-pockets for water bottles and other accessories. Clinch-straps to tighten the load. While small, it still fits up to 10 kg / 20 lbs of gear and clothing.

It’s a panel-load system, with zippers all the way round, allowing for quick and easy packaging and access.

Size: 30 liters / 5500 cubic inches
Weight : 1 kg / 2 lbs
Fits torso lengths : 13-17"

Best Backpack for Children & Small Women : Osprey Jib 34

With a highly stable, peripheral frame sized for narrow hips, shoulder and back, this small backpack takes the load to the hips where it belongs. It’s highly adjustable, allowing children to grow and keep using it for years. Has an integrated rain-cover and fits a water-hydration bag ("bladder") etc.

Osprey's new Jib pack represent a sea change in comfort, features, and durability among youth backpacks. For one, the usual complaints - "Dad, my shoulders hurt" - virtually disappeared. Our kids actually volunteered to take more weight. And we were able to tackle more demanding terrain, including several rugged multiday routes in the Grand Canyon that would have been dangerous - even impossible - with less stable packs.

-Backpacker Magazine

Size: 34 liters / 2100 cubic inches
Weight : 1 kg / 2 lbs
Fits torso lengths : 13-19"

Best Baby-Backpack / Carrier : Vaude Butterfly Comfort Child Carrier

For carrying babies / small children up to 3 years old on your back. This award-winning model encircles your child allowing safe transport and keeps child’s head in a comfortable position during long walks. Built-in sunshade / rain roof and “diaper pocket”. Carry straps adjust easily to both mom and dad. Safe and durable design and construction. Extendable foot allowing you to put in down on the ground when taking a break.

Weight : 4kg / 8 lbs.

I hope you found a useful backpack here. If you don't know how to measure your torso length, see this post where I also explain the intricacies of buying backpacks online.

Bhutan trekking routes & map

2009-08-23T17:51:00.004+05:30

There are several good trekking routes in the Bhutan Himalayas and the Bhutanese government continues to open up new trekking routes. Some of the trekking routes are very long and will take you a month to complete(!), while other trekking routes are shorter and can be completed in a few days to a week. I’ve tried to plot some of the best and most popular trekking routes in on the map below. It isn’t an exact map to trek from, so if you’re going there, you’ll need to get your own map. This map have mountain passes, tracks and camp sites marked. Buy Now!.

Map sketch of trekking routes in the (western) Bhutan Himalayas

The Druk Path
Between the Bhutanese capital, Thimphu, and the location of the international airport in Paro, there’s a couple of interesting trekking routes. One is pretty much a straight line between the two cities, and the other one goes up north from Paro and then down again to Thimphu. This trekking route is called the Druk Path and it’s among the most popular treks in Bhutan. The Druk Path can be completed in 4-6 days and reaches a maximum altitude of 4200 meters. On the trail you’ll pass alpine lakes with giant trouts, temples, yaks and of course a stunning mountain landscape.

The Jomolhari Trek
A slightly longer trekking route, still between Paro and Thimphu, goes up the mountain valley west of Paro, then round and down to Thimphu. There’s an option to circle back to the valley that goes down to Paro again. It typically takes about one week to complete either of these two routes.

Both of these treks (also referred to as the Jumolhari trek and the Chomolhari trek) have splendid views of Mt. Jomolhari (~7310 meters), the second biggest mountain in Bhutan and arguably the most beautiful mountain in the Himalayas! The routes also pass a couple of high glacial lakes and there’s a chance to see the fabled Himalayan blue sheep!

The short route requires you to cross the Bhonte La pass (~4890 meters) whereas on the longer, “full route”, you have to cross both the Nyela La pass (~4250 meters) and the Yeli La pass (~4930 meters).

The Long Gasa / Gangkhar Puensum Base Camp Trek (aka the Snowman’s trek)
Another trekking route that start from Paro (optional, in fact) and goes all the way up to Bhutan’s northern Himalayan mountains is the Gasa / Gangkhar Puensum Base Camp Trek. It’s a very long trekking route that typically takes about a month to complete in its full. It’s also referred to as “the toughest trek in the world” and certainly takes you to a very remote part of the Himalayas.

The rewards on this trekking route are all of the above mentioned, plus several beautiful turquoise-blue mountain lakes, hot springs in Gasa, good chances to see rare Himalayan wildlife, such as blue sheep and of course getting up close and personal with Bhutan’s highest mountain, the Gangkhar Puensum (~7570 meters). The Gangkhar Puensum has the honor of being the highest unclimbed mountain in the world today, owing to a Bhutanese ban on mountaineering. It is their belief that mountains are holy and should be kept clear of disruptive mountain climbs.

But with several 5000+ meter high passes and so many days of trekking in high altitude, this epic trekking route is not for beginners. As indicated on the map above, there are options for making this trekking route a bit smaller. If you have the time an stamina, this is really one to consider!

Other trekking routes in Bhutan There are many other options for trekking in the Bhutan Himalayas. The routes I just described are probably the 3 most spectacular, but the Samtengang Trek, the 1000 Lake trek (between Thimphu and Paro) and the Merak Valley trek (in the eastern Trashigang region) also deserves mention.

But you really need to contact a trekking agency for details. Like I mentioned in the How, when and where of Bhutan trekking, all treks have to be done through a registered trekking agency in Bhutan. Start with contacting them and asking them for suggested routes. See what your options are from a few different agencies. You can then proceed to cherry-pick, plan and arrange the trekking route that best suits YOU! That’s how it’s done…

Trekking in Bhutan Himalayas – How, When, Where & What

2009-08-23T17:27:00.012+05:30

The trekking options in the little Himalayan kingdom, Bhutan, stands out as something of a unique experience. I haven’t been there myself (yet), but from what I’ve heard it is an experience to cherish. The trekking trails in the Bhutan Himalayas are stunning and remote. Pristine villages and lofty 7000+ meter peaks dot the map along the trekking trail. Yaks are grassing in high valleys and giant trout swim around in turquoise-blue mountain lakes! Add to this picture that there are hardly any other trekkers around, and you are pretty much guaranteed to have a really unique trekking experience in the Bhutan Himalayas! Here’s the basic lowdown on Bhutan trekking:

How do you trek in Bhutan?

Trekking in Bhutan must be done through a registered trekking tour agency. There’s no individual backpackers here. Furthermore, there’s a daily minimum tariff, set at US $200 (*) per night for all trekking tours in Bhutan. That’s the price to pay for trekking through one of the most unspoiled parts of the Himalayas. No way around it. But you can expect a high level of service from the trekking agency. All food and lodgings are included, as are guides, transport, porters, horses/ponies etc. You’ll even have your own cook trekking with you!

There’s one little loophole to the part about not being able to trek alone. If you arrange your trek with a couple of resting days, where your campsite doesn’t move, you’ll probably be able to stroll around on little side-trips without the whole expedition guiding and following you.

(*) Note: The $200 tariff is per person for groups of 3 or more. If you’re trekking alone or as a couple, there’s a surcharge of $40 / $30 added. There’s also a $20 visa and a $10 tourism fee to pay when entering Bhutan.

At least you’ll know exactly how much you need to save up for a trekking tour in Bhutan!

When is the best time to trek in Bhutan?

The best season for trekking in Bhutan is the spring season (March-April-May-June) and the fall season (September-October-November). But trekking can be done all year round. In the winter season (December-January-February) the routes that doesn’t involve crossing any high-passes are still open. And trekking in the summer season (July and August) is also possible, although it’s not the best time to do it. Don’t go on low-altitude treks in the summer. It’s hot!

Where can you trek in Bhutan?

There’s a good variety of trekking routes in Bhutan. From short 3-day treks to long 30-day treks! Some routes are for mountains, other routes are for birding or for general nature and culture experiences. Please see the Bhutan map and trekking routes for further details.

What do you need to bring to Bhutan?

Run through the usual trekking checklists before you go, but a couple of reminders specially minded for trekking in Bhutan :

Sleeping bags - usually not included in the treks –having your own is usually preferably anyway (rather than being the 100th person to sleep in that bag!).
A camera and plenty of film/memory card. The selection in Thimphu isn’t exactly great. Extra batteries could also be handy!
Consider a backup camera.
A couple of books for the resting time between your hectic activities – see end of this post for suggestions.
Your personal prescription medicine and other trekking goodies to make your trip more enjoyable.
And of course, some suitable clothes, trekking trousers, jacket, boots, rain gear and a small daypack or backpack for the stuff you need all the time.

What can you expect when trekking in Bhutan?

Expect a high level of service,
a stunning and possibly tough trek,
a pristine high-altitude nature,
being the only travelers for miles and miles around,
good chances of spotting rare wildlife such as the Himalayan Blue Sheep,
high snowcapped peaks, beautiful mountain lakes and high valleys
a “unique culture” (a bit of a cliché but consider this: They call it “the land of the thunder dragon”, TV and internet has only been allowed the last 10 years, the government believes the mountains are holy and Bhutan measures its “Gross Domestic Happiness” along with its GDP! What other countries match that for being unique?)

---

Bhutan Travel
Guide Books:

Check the more detailed trekking descriptions here or read more in the literature selection just below:

Nepal Air Tickets – How & How Much

2009-08-22T07:59:00.003+05:30

There’s plenty of cheap flights domestically in Nepal. And considering the ground terrain and scary road conditions, an airline ticket is usually an attractive option in Nepal! But I should say, if you have fear of flying the flights can also be a bit scary! Consider overcoming your fear of flying by taking a course before you get to Nepal.

Second point you should know is that air fares differ between locals and foreigners in Nepal, with foreigners having to pay higher air fares than locals. Sucks! But still, the occasional air ticket is reasonably affordable, with typical ticket prices around 100-200 US dollars per flight (for foreigners).

Kathmandu is the natural air travel hub in Nepal, and flights goes daily to popular tourist and trekking destinations such as Pokhara, Jomsom (Annapurna), Lukla (Everest) and Jumla (Dolpo/Dolpa). In high season, most notably in October, you need to book your trip one to two weeks in advance. But I have personally booked a flight 20 minutes before departure, and arrived at the airport 5 minutes before departure, only to find the flight delayed about an hour. Delays are, to say the least, quite common in Nepal! And that's the third point: Expect delays, even for several days if the weather is bad.

Booking your domestic Nepal air ticket online - is unfortunately not always possible directly through these airline web sites. Even exact ticket price information can be out of date, as web sites aren’t updated very frequently. An illustrative example is the state owned (Royal) Nepal Airlines. After the monarchy was abolished in 2006, they officially skipped the ‘Royal’ part of their name, but they haven’t gotten around to updating their web site address yet, now 3 years later!

There’s 5 major domestic airlines in Nepal: (Royal) Nepal Airlines, Buddha Air, Yeti Air, Gorkha Air and Cosmic Air. Booking flights through a Nepal tour agency is usually the way to go. So send them an email and they'll sort it out for you.

Flights in Nepal are usually small 12-seater or 19-seater aircrafts. Some landing strips are of the STOL type – Short Take-Off and Landing. These are typically perched on small semi-horizontal parts of hillsides and can be a bit scary. Examples of the most scary air strips are the ones in Jomsom, Juphal, Taplejung, Tumlingtar and Phaplu.

Lukla Airport Crash
On the 8th October 2008, a small aircraft from Yeti Airlines crashed and burst into flames while attempting to land at Lukla Airport. 18 of 19 people in the plane was killed. They were mostly foreign tourists.

Airplane crashes, and more often helicopter crashes do occur in Nepal from time to time. But so do bus and road accidents. I don’t mean to scare you from flying, and considering the huge number of flights (50 flights in and out of Lukla per day in high season), air travel in Nepal must be considered relatively safe. Again, consider taking a course in overcoming fear of flying before heading out to Nepal.

Short Treks in Nepal : Langtang or Gosaikunda

2009-08-20T23:08:00.008+05:30

Two of the shortest and easiest high-altitude treks you can do in Nepal Himalayas are the Langtang Valley Trek and the Gosaikunda Trek. They are both located about 70 km north of the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu, and the treks can be done as 5-day treks, or perhaps 6-day treks - and that's including transport to and from Kathmandu!

And if you're willing to spare the air-fare, you can even get a mini Everest trek in 5 days as well.

5-6 days may not sound like a short trek, and surely you can walk around in the Nepalese hills on a day-trip from your comfortable Kathmandu hotel, but if you want to get up in the high-altitude landscape, beyond the trees and away from civilization, then it can be difficult to do it in less than a week – unless you charter a helicopter! Langtang and Gosaikunda are two of the exceptions.

Short high-altitude trek #1,
Langtang Valley (Nepal):
Day one : Bus from Kathmandu to Syabru Besi (~1450 meters). If the bus arrives early, start walking a couple of hours immediately!
Day two : Walk to Ghoda Tabela (~3000 meters) or even to Langtang Village (~3400), if you have the energy.
Day three : Walk to Kyanjing Gompa (~3800 meters) but return and spend the night in Langtang Village to avoid the AMS headaches.
Day four : Walk down to Syabru Besi. From Langtang Village it should take you 8-10 hours, depending on your shape. The locals walk down in 6 hours, but don’t count on beating their records. They are virtual Himalayan express trains!
Day five : Early morning bus back to Kathmandu.

Nature as Art. Black and White Poster of mountain in the upper Langtang Valley. Click to buy this poster now!

Short high-altitude trek #2,
Gosaikunda Lake (Nepal):
Day one : Bus from Kathmandu to Dunche (~2000 meters).
Day two : Walk from Dunche to Sing Gompa (~3300 meters)
Day three : Easy day today, walk up to Laurabinyak (~3900 meters). It’s not far, 3-4 hours but significantly higher. So stay there for the night to avoid the AMS headache.
Day four : Walk up to the Gosaikunda Lake (~4400 meters) and return to Laurabinayak / Sing Gompa for the night.
Day five : Return to Dunche.
Day six : Bus to Kathmandu.

Poster of view from Laurebinyak, early morning. Click to buy this poster now!

Short high-altitude trek #3, Mount Everest (Nepal):
Day one : Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (~2800 meters) and trek to Phakding (~2650 meters).
Day two : Walk to Namche Bazar (~3450 meters)
Day three : Walk up to Syangboche (~3750 meters) and have a look at Mt. Everest (and Lhotse and Ama Dablam - if the weather is clear). Take a sigh and then walk back to Namche.
Day four : Namche to Lukla (walking)
Day five : Lukla to Kathmandu (flying).

The first two treks are possible to do as “tea-house treks”, meaning that you don’t need to worry about food and lodging. Bring minimal equipment so you can do a quick assault! But if you have an extra day or two, I’d recommend just taking the extra time to enjoy the stunning high-altitude landscape up there. And if you have 10 days, you can do both of these treks. And yes, it’s “worth it” to do both!

See you on the trail!

There’s a more detailed map and route description for the Langtang Valley Trek here. Also hints on getting up there, to the starting points of the two treks here.

Langtang Valley Maps & Route Description

2009-08-20T18:11:00.013+05:30

So you’re thinking about trekking up in the Langtang Valley? Good choice! I’ve been there 4 times and just love it. Since it can be done as one of the shortest treks out of Kathmandu, Nepal, fully equipped with tea-houses and stunningly beautiful, it's one of the most popular treks in Nepal. If you are just going up the valley to Langtang and down again, you don’t really need a map. Or a guide for that matter. But if you’re planning to walk back to Kathmandu from Langtang, a map is a good idea. Not to get lost like that Australian fellow who spent 3 weeks in the wilderness between Langtang and Kathmandu. It’s a bit beyond me how he managed to get that much lost, but surely, you could easily take some wrong turns and unnecessarily prolong your trek.

But for the Langtang Valley alone, the route is fairly simple. Getting to the starting point in Syabru Besi can be a bit of an adventure in itself. From there you just cross the river and head into the eastward valley. Make sure you don’t take the northward valley as this will take you to the Chinese border!

Langtang Valley route points
The tea-house points up the Langtang Valley comes about every 1-2 hours of walking and the order is as follows:

Syabru Besi (~1450 meters) – (lodge at bridge) - Poiro (~1670 meters) – Bamboo (~2000 meters) - (another lodge at bridge) - Rimche (~2450 meters) – Lama Hotel (~2420 meters) – Riverside/Gumna-chowk (~2500 meters) - Ghoda Tabela (~3000 meters) – (various small tea house villages) - Langtang Village (~3400 meters) – Mundo - Singdum - Kyanjing Gompa (~3800 meters).

How long does it take?
Walking up from Syabru Besi, it is possible to reach Langtang Valley in a day. But you need to be fit, walk quickly and start early. It’s 2000 meters up, plus the up-down-up-again factor, which is quite high in the beginning! So I’ll advice you to stay the first night somewhere between Lama Hotel and Ghoda Tabela. Remember, once you’re over 3000 meters, the oxygen level is down to two-thirds of sea level conditions. If you’ve been walking all day, this is likely to be where you get tired!

PS: Watch out for AMS headaches. When you reach Langtang Village, always stay overnight!

Side trips in Langtang Valley
Gosaikunda
Hardly a side trip actually. More of a complete trek in itself. From the Langtang Valley, just below the Poiro settlement, you’ll have to find a little trail leading to Thulo Syabru, and from there to either Sing Gompa or Chalangpati, then Laurebinyak and finally to the Gosaikunda lake. There are a few tea-house lodges along the way. If you are fit, count 2 days to reach Gosaikunda Lake (4400 meters, 14,500 ft) from Langtang Valley. 3 days more average. Just note that it is starting to get really high here, it's the highest (and coldest) trail in this area. At 3000 meters above your starting point, it will be some 20°C colder up here than where you started! And windy too! Make sure you are properly dressed for the occasion:

Kyanjing Glacier
From Kyanjing Gompa (last settlement in upper Langtang Valley), explore the side valley that goes north from the old Gompa (Buddhist monastery). There’s a huge glacier in there, slowly melting of course…

Upper Langtang Valley
From Kyanjing Gompa you should really try to head further into the valley. It just keeps getting more and more beautiful! But there are no lodges anymore, so it’s either a camping trek or return by nightfall. Personally, I'd say it's totally worth the extra time and effort to spend a couple of days up there. And it's quite simple, you just need 4 things: A tent, a sleeping bag, a cooking stove and some food. Check these links for recommendations on gear:

River Crossing at Shimdu / Mondu
Between Langtang Village and Kyanjing Gompa on the main route, there are a couple of small villages called Mundu and Shimdu. Ask a bit around or just try making your way down to the river. Perhaps an hour’s walk and you should be able to find an old Tibetan-style cantilever bridge. Cross it and explore the other side, it’s like there’s a bay in the cliff walls. Beautiful area!

Rasuwa Gadhi
Ancient fort and a modern suspension bridge marking the border to Tibet / China. Also army check post. From the bottom of the Langtang Valley (Syabru Besi), head up the northern valley for a day.

Tamang Heritage Trail
A 5 day trip that can be done as an extension to the Langtang Valley trek. From Syabru Besi at the bottom of the Langtang Valley, you first head north-west to Gatlang, then north to Tato Pani and then you cross east through the back country, Thuman – Briddim and join up with the main trail around Lama Hotel. It is a new homestay route that is a lot less traveled.

Tsherko (Chhergo) Ri
The Tsherko Ri is a popular trekking peak that reaches 5000 meters / 16,500 feet. Done out of Kanching Gompa in the upper Langtang Valley, it’s best to set off early morning at the break of light. Before sunset. You can reach the cold summit and be back in Kanching Gompa in the afternoon same day.

Ganja La Pass
The Ganja La Pass is more of a mountain expedition than a trek. You will need a local guide to show you the way, as well as snow gear and camping equipment. It is challenging and you need to be ready for some rough conditions.

View Larger Map
Map of Langtang Valley. One of very few Himalayan Valleys that goes East-West in stead of North-South!

You don’t strictly need the Langtang Valley Map if what you want is just to get up and down. But if you plan to explore the side trips it is good to have. It also makes for good ice-breakers and conversations over a cup of tea and besides, if you’re a map addict like me, it can be fun to have anyway. So check the map above or buy your own to bring on your trek from amazon here:

Langtang trekking map, by National Geographic.
Printed on waterproof, tear-resistant plastic material.
> Buy here! <

The Road to Langtang - a few hints

2009-08-20T18:00:00.010+05:30

The road trip from Kathmandu to Langtang Valley can be quite an experience. Driving on the edge of the abyss, on a narrow, stony gravel road carved out of a soft soil hillside – and then meeting a truck coming in the opposite direction! There’s also landslides to watch out for. And you can’t even be sure to have a proper seat on the bus for the 8-10 hours drive! But it’s a road, nevertheless, and usually it will get you to your destination.

The road to Langtang is in good condition until you reach Trishuli Bazar (~540 meters), which is usually where the bus-drivers stop for breakfast/lunch at 10-11 o’clock. From there it’s up, up, up the road until Dunche (~2000 meters, district headquarters and where you need to pay your park entrance fee). You either get off there or continue a couple of hours further down the road until you get to Syabru Besi, the starting point of the Langtang Valley trek.

6 Hints for the mountain road trip to Langtang Valley:

On paper, it’s easy: Get on one of the two busses leaving Kathmandu’s New Bus Park every morning, at about 6.30 and 7 o’clock. And 8-10 hours later, start trekking up the Langtang Valley. Tickets cost about 3$!
The bus tends to get really crowded. So get to the bus station early and consider booking your ticket one day in advance, if possible.
There’s not always enough seats. The last passengers to arrive may have to sit on the roof of the bus! Especially when driving down the road from Langtang. Don’t worry if it happens, just hang on up there!
Road conditions can be even worse after the monsoon. Especially September and October. Landslides tend to occur at a point before Dunche, and you may simply have to get off your bus and walk through the landslide. This will delay you a couple of hours.
Hiring a jeep to drive you up the road from Kathmandu is also an option. It will be more comfortable and a bit faster. Perhaps also a bit safer.
And finally, you can skip the road altogether, either by walking in from Kathmandu (4-5 days, you’ll need a map) or by chartering a helicopter (20 minutes!, 1500$ for a 5-seater one way).

But if you do decide to take the bus to Langtang, and that's what most visitors do, the good news is that you'll have a great story to tell friends at home. If they believe you!

Ease your pain
Three quick suggestions to relieve you from the fatigue of a cramped and long bus trip:

Strike up conversations with other bus passengers - and make it as deep as possible.
Bring your iPod.
And get some motion sickness tablets or try the wrist strap with acupressure motion-aid.

Dolpo Trekking - Permits, Maps & Routes

2009-08-18T18:08:00.017+05:30

Trekking in the Dolpo/Dolpa region of the Nepal Himalayas is a dream for many mountain enthusiasts. If you’ve seen Eric Valli’s Oscar nominated movie, “Himalayan Caravan”, you’ll know why! The attractions are the typical arid trans-Himalayan landscape, with the turquoise-blue Phoksundo Lake as an out-of-this-world pearl in the middle. It’s the survival against the odds of the tough mountain folks living there, at the mercy of Gods and nature. And it’s just the general remoteness of the Dolpo region, hidden behind one of the world's 14 8000+ meter peaks: Dhaulagiri.

Obviously, it’s neither easy nor cheap getting to Dolpo. Which is probably another attraction to many: It’s an accomplishment! Far away from hordes of tourists chatting away over their banana pancakes. The image of “an untouched culture” is somewhat overplayed in Valli’s movie, but Dolpo is a rare and remote place that can be the experience of a lifetime.

The un-developed nature of the Dolpo/Dolpa Region (the two names are used interchangeably), makes trekking here much more exploration type trekking. Trekking expeditions needs to be fully self-sufficient, with food and cooking gear, tents, sleeping bags etc. The upper part of Dolpo is very remote and the landscape resembles that of the Tibetan Plateau: Arid, barren and moon-like.

Dolpo Weather
Being part of the trans-Himalayas (North side of Himalaya), the Upper Dolpo only sees little rain – even during the monsoon period. This makes it a specially interesting trekking option in July/August. The lower part of Dolpo, somewhat south of Phoksundo Lake (3,627 meters) and the Kagmara La Pass (5,115 meters) are easier to reach. But in the winter period (November to February), snow can make high passes un-crossable as early as October. Good snow trekking techniques can help though. The local Dolpo population (Dhol-wa’s) are largely subsistence farmers and traders, and northern valley inhabitants migrate to lower lying areas, or even to Pokhara or Kathmandu, during the winter months.

Phoksundo Lake, The jewel of Dolpo!
Buy this image as a Fine-Art Poster,
18x24 inch!

Dolpo Permit Fees
Dolpo is a “restricted area” in Nepal, meaning that you’ll need a trekking permit. The bad news is that permit fees are quite high – But the good news is that it just got cheaper!

The Upper Dolpo trekking permit fee now, mid 2009, stands at USD 700 for 10 days plus an additional 10$ fee per day after that. And that’s per person! The Lower Dolpo region is much more reasonable, just 10$ per week. There’s also a small fee for entering the Shey-Phoksundo National Park, currently 1000 rupees (~13 USD)

Other options for visiting the Nepalese trans-Himalayas are Mustang and Manang, the latter one being the upper part of the Annapurna Circuit.

Map and Routes of Dolpo Region
The easiest and shortest route to get into Dolpo-land is to fly to Juphal airstrip (~2300 meters) from Nepalgunj or Pokhara. Or, more strenuously, begin in Beni (road-connected) or Dhorpatan (~3200 meters) and cross several high passes before reaching Dunai (~2200 meters), close to Juphal.

Alternate routes are via Jumla (~2400 meters), by a short flight or a long and rough 4WD drive, and from Jumla trek about 10 days to the Phoksundo and Shey areas. It’s also possible to walk in from Jomsom via Phoksundo to the airstrip in Juphal.

Read more about trekking in Dolpo
Peter Mattiessen's book, The Snow Leopard, is a classic account of his 250 mile journey into Dolpo-land. In the thin air, his search for the fabled snow leopard becomes a spiritual search for meaning and truth! Comes in a handy paperback, perfect for throwing into the backpack if you're going there. For a more factual when-where-who-how-what, the ever-present Lonely Planet's Nepal Trekking Guidebook will answer more of your questions about Dolpo and all the other trekking options in Nepal.

View Larger Map
Map of the trekking area around Phoksundo Lake, Dolpo. Click and drag to scroll around!

Although it’s hard getting to Dolpo, it’s not impossible either. There’s basically three things you need to do.
• Get yourself in physical shape for 2 to 4 weeks high altitude trekking (3-5000 meters).
• Get yourself prepared: Set time aside, find the funds, research and set goals and find some trekking partners to share the costs.
• Book a trekking tour through one of Nepal’s many trekking agencies. They can organize all the practicalities and contingencies for you. Take it off your shoulders. You might want to consult them now to get more info, price etc.

Trekking Ladakh: Markha Valley

2009-08-17T21:50:00.006+05:30

The first real trekking expedition I ever went on was the Markha Valley trek in the Ladakh Region of Northern India. We had to cross over the Himalayas, in jeep, before entering Ladakh. Nestled between the Karakoram Range and the Zanskar / Himalayan Mountain Range, Ladakh offers rare and stunning natural beauty. And the trekking? Fantastic! I was hooked!

When I got back to civilization, I felt very inspired and had a crazy writing frenzy and wrote down the following account of my trekking experiences. It's a long trekking account and will probably take you 10-15 minutes to read. So get a cup of coffee or something. But it's worth it. Re-reading it now, 6 years later, it still stand out as a great piece of travel writing!

Markha Valley Trekking in Ladakh, August-September 2003

Now, most people that come here it would seem, go on guided tours with donkeys to carry all their shit over the passes and paying 20-30 US Dollars a day for the whole package tour. But the concept of guides doesn't really appeal to me. I don't want somebody telling me where to go and holding my hand when I'm in the wilderness. It's simply against the basic spirit of trekking. So I started making preparations for an independent trek, but to my surprise there weren't any good outdoor-equipment stores in town. I did, however, manage to round up a compass and a map and a sleeping bag and a kerosene stove and some warm clothes and a lot of dried food. Tofu's and powdered soup and rice and instant noodles and dried apricots and raisins and nuts and sun-dried tomatoes and such. And I made some posters and put them up around town to find somebody to go with me, and that's how I got in contact with Tom from Holland and Stefan from Germany. They both had all the equipment and trekking tents that I hadn't been able to find and so, on the 4th of September, we set out on the path to the mountains.

The sky was cloudy that morning, but as we crossed the Indus river, the spirit was high and the expectations great. We followed the river downstream for a couple of hours, walking across a barren plateau of rocks and dust, before turning south into a gorge. The trail was relatively easy and the scenery was fantastic to behold. Once we got up close to these giant cliffs and mountains, they revealed a fantastic range of colors, shapes and structures. I felt like Gulliver in the land of Brobdingnag. The first difficulty, which also turned out to be the greatest difficulty on the entire trek, came in the afternoon. We were walking on the floor of a narrow gorge and came to a place where we had the option of either wading through the cold, roaring river or make our way up and down the side of a steep mountain wall. Tom and I chose the latter option which, looking back, we probably shouldn't have done. The cliffs were wet from the beginning rain and there were only a few razor-edge ledges to gain foothold on and grab hold of, randomly scattered here and there. But very carefully, with complete and undivided attention, one step at the time, we made our daring way along the side of the mountain and half an hour later, safely made it down on the other side. After that little adventure, the trail was easy to follow again, but the heavy backpack was starting to make it's impact. I got drained of energy, and when we finally reached the camp spot near the village of Rumbak, it was starting to get dark and I was exhausted to the point of nausea. We had ascended 500 meters that day, and covered a distance of 22 km. Now, in 4000 meters height, we put up our tents, cooked some food, ate and hit the sack. There was nothing more to be said or done that day.

The next day was an easy one. We only walked for two hours before we set up camp at the foot of the Ganda La. No trees were in sight, the sparse vegetation consisting only of small, grassy areas and sage bushes, among which we put up our tents. The afternoon was spent lingering in the grass, resting, acclimatizing, meditating and doing tai-chi exercises. Not many words were spoken between us, we had all walked the same grounds, seen the same scenes and we all understood the task at hand tomorrow: Ganda La. Life was simple. Walk, eat, sleep.

So Saturday morning was the morning of yet another great day of walking. We left the camp shortly before 8 o'clock and spend the next three hours ascending the Ganda La. The bag still felt heavy and the air was thinning out. For every single step I took, I had to take a deep breath in and out. Next step, breathe in, breathe out. But the trail was merciless, just kept on going up, up, up.
- Who got this crazy idea anyway? To walk up this infernal rock, carrying all this equipment and food?
Well, unfortunately, it was my own idea, so I couldn't really blame it on anyone but myself. There was only one thing to do and that was to keep on keeping on, to continue going up. And suddenly I saw the flag-decorated stone-setting of the summit and was able to walk the final fifty meters quite easily.

Mani wall and prayer flags on the Ganda La summit

I reached the top of the 4920 meters with a loud YEE-HAA-exclaim and there it was, the stunning view over the Zanskar Range to the south and the Ladakh Range to the north, and behind them, the distant peaks of the two highest mountain ranges in the world, the Himalayas in the south and the Karakoram in the north! We spent a quarter of an hour on the wind-swept top, taking pictures and admiring the view, before we started our long descent.

The Zanskar and Himalayan mountains

It turned out to be longer than any of us had expected, so the entire afternoon were spent walking down through the gorgeous gorge that grew more and more narrow for every step we took, the vegetation slowly reappearing, culminating down in Shingo-town with a virtual thickening of bushes, willow-trees and poplar. As the sun started setting, the mountain walls slowly turned to walls of murky gold, warm colors radiating everywhere from their sides. It was like walking in an clay-oven, with the narrow cleavage of the mountain generously dispersing all the accumulated warmth, gathered from every ray emitted from the sun during the day and I was having revelations about how my life had changed and how everything is constantly changing. Even the mountains don't last forever.

A bit of greenery around Shingo

We were all walking on our own, with 100 meters or more separating us. Down ahead was Tom, who was always the fastest of us. Always very efficient. In the mornings he had usually already packed his bag and was ready to go while Stefan and I were still goofing around with water bottles, tent-parts, stoves, pots and pans. But as we were going down, I was usually close behind him, and further up the scree, Stefan was struggling with pain, wounds and exhaustion, partly because he had only just got rid of a cold, partly because his backpack was much heavier than ours. Most of his equipment seemed to be a little more advanced than mine, but at the same time also heavier. A goose-down sleeping bag, a big SLR camera with UV-filter and all, metal thermo water bottles and all sorts of different little bags with emergency and repair equipment. Eventually, Tom and I ended up carrying some of his stuff, we had to lighten his heavy burden.

We set up camp just outside Skiu about 6 o'clock in the evening, after nearly 10 hours on the trail. The evening wind was picking up now as the sun was setting and the ground was getting colder, but by the time we'd finished eating, it was all quiet again and I laid down on the ground and looked at the stars and the moon that was slowly rising to a point just above the peak of the mountain that mightily stood in front of us, at the end of the gorge, on the opposite side of the Markha River. Tom hit the sack, while Stefan and I were sitting up on a couple of rocks and enjoying another hour of the quiet, serene, almost-full-moon-lid night, circled by the fluorescent mountain walls rising to all our sides, glowing in the light of the moon.

The next three days were easier, we walked maybe four-five-six hours a day, following the Markha River upstream heading south-east, climbing some 500 meters pr day, crawling sometimes on hands and knees through the bushes, at other times wading through the river, crossing vast valley plains, passing stupas and small villages on our way. The fourth night we spent outside the village of Markha, where we made a bond fire and sat up and talked quietly for a few hours after dinner.

Along the Markha River

On the morning of the fifth day, we hadn't walked more than twenty minutes before we ran into an old friend of mine! The good old, usually stoned, Mexican fisherman, Haime, who I had first met on the beach in Goa some five months earlier and then ran into again a couple of months ago in a crazy nightclub in Kathmandu. Of all the places in the world that you bump into old friends, this has got to be one of the more unlikely ones, on a mountain slope in the remote Trans-Himalayas. He was together with two other guys and they were two days away from completing their 19-day trek! Haime, who's usually a pretty stout guy, now looked gaunt and worn down, but seemed to be in a good shape. So we spent a few minutes catching up on each other's itineraries and then exchanged road advices with each other, since we were now going in opposite directions. And so we parted again, but surely we would bump into each other again, back in Leh and maybe somewhere else, later in our lives.

Just a small village somewhere

We had light rain a couple of times that day, but to our luck, there was always a little shed within our reach when the rain came, so we took shelter in these cozy sheds, usually used for horses, donkeys, goats and the likes, judging from the smell. By the end of the day, we caught sight of the snowcapped Kangyatze Mountain, the highest one in the area, with it's impressive 6400 meters, and later we set up camp in Thochuntse. And that night we cooked pasta and soya-chunks in a hot-and-sour Knorr soup and devoured it with delight and sat outside until we were driven to bed by the bitterly cold night.

And so also the sixth day went. We reached Konmaru La base camp at Nimaling early in the afternoon, now very close to the opening jaw that makes up the crest of the Kangyatze, only separated by a 'minor' hill. Here, in the thin air of 4700 meters, we settled down and tried to acclimatize for the night and the next day. I decided to make a solo attempt to go up on the hill, that separated us from Kangyatze. It didn't look too difficult. Just carrying my binoculars and my camera, I set of in a quick pace, but was soon reminded of the significant altitude I was in. After twenty seconds, I had to stop and catch my breath again. So I had a little taste of what was in store for us tomorrow. So in a more moderate pace, I made my way to what looked like the ridge of the hill, when you looked up from the base camp. But there was another ridge further up, further in towards the Kangyatze. So I proceeded to reach this ridge as well, only to see that there was yet another little ridge to pass further up. I went half way up there and could see a fourth ridge in the distance. This could go on for a long time and I didn't want to waste too much energy before tomorrow, so I settled for the view I had right then and there, looking into a good chunk of the Kangyatze jaw. And when I turned my head around, looking back, I couldn't see the camp anymore, but I had a grand view of the entire Nimaling Valley.

The sun would be setting soon, so I headed down again, back to base. It became an early night for all of us due to the hostile climate. We all went to our sleeping bags about 7 o'clock even though we weren't really tired, and we stayed there almost 12 hours. Nobody slept very well that night, I was waking up every 15 minutes, turning around, trying to find a not-wholly-uncomfortable sleeping position, gasping for air, being thirsty or waking up by the barks of the packs of dogs, roaming the empty valley floor. But at least I kept warm all night, sleeping in all my clothes, in my thick woolen socks, and thick, knitted cap.

When we got up the next morning, the little streams surrounding our camp were covered with ice and it was beginning to snow. But now in better shape than ever and with the weight of the backpacks lightened by our consumption, we ascended up the 5150 meter pass in a steady pace and reached the summit in less than two hours. The wind was cold and hard, and it was now snowing severely. And the view we had all been hoping for was blurred by the precipitation.

So we quickly proceeded down the northern side of the mountain, the first hour going down a huge pile of loose rocks making it out for a mountain. In my worn down, soft-soled sneakers, I kept slipping and sliding and I had difficulties maintaining my balance. Far below us, we could see the trail, down at the bottom of the gorge, in between the two red-earthed ridges. We were now on the more windy side of the mountain, the cold wind coming in from the north, but as we descended, the weather gradually turned warmer and the sky cleared up a bit, snow-fall lessening, instead turning into a light rain now and then. And joyfully, we wandered down. I was letting my thoughts run wild, contemplating the magnitude of our victory.

-We had conquered the mountains!
-No, even better, we had conquered ourselves. Reached our dreams!
But then I realized:
-No. The mountains are not a place for conquests and dreams, but a place for respect and realities. Naturally. What we had done was, we had plainly made our way over some mountains and across some difficult terrain, and from here, all we had to do was follow the trail downhill. So we did.

And this was one of the most stunning parts of the trip. We soon passed a flock of deer, grassing on a green meadow. They took little notice of us, just took a few steps further away from the trail. Later on, we came down the steep slope, down to the floor of the gorge, which was covered with debris rocks in red and bluish-grey colors. To both our sides, steep mountain walls stretched unbelievably towards the sky with smaller ridges going up in straight parallel lines, looking like some inverted fossil plough tracks. Red, purple, green, brown, grey. Separating these small ridges were bigger ones, stone walls traversing the entire mountain-side, from bottom to top, with smaller peaks and formations dotting out of the jagged cliffs everywhere.

Mountain slope

Somewhere, it was just paper-thin slices of rock, standing out the side of the mountain like napkins in a napkin-holder. Deep cuts and furrows cutting through every stone and dividing the whole picture into small, different-shaped rectangles, thereby creating a gigantic mosaic-painting. This performance just continued in front of our eyes for hours with new shapes and variations emerging around every little bend in the trail. Sometimes we'd be walking down on the rock bottom of the gorge next to the stream, sometimes we'd be walking up on the narrow foot-path along the hillside.

Red rock hillside foot-path

By late afternoon, signs of civilization started appearing. Telephone lines went as far up as to the village of Chukirmo and from there, we reached the village of Sumdo in a couple of hours, arriving early in the evening. As we were settling down and taking of our backpacks at the campsite, the minibus from Leh drove in and stopped just outside camp and we all looked at each other and considered for a moment just exactly how much we actually wanted to walk that last stretch to Hemis tomorrow when maybe we could be back in town tonight, in the soft beds of the Oriental Guest House. Inclined to take the bus, I went over and asked the driver when he would return to Leh, but he said it wasn't before next morning at 8 o'clock. So we set up our tents and tried to forget about the bus and we had a feast of all the food we had left. Tofu in soup as an appetizer, and chicken korma as the main course, washed down with a cup of warm tea. After dinner, we sat around in the grass and enjoyed the plentiful and warm air and told each other stories and riddles about a door to freedom, a naked corpse in the desert, a gun-slinging bartender, and a suicidal train-passenger in a non-smoking compartment.

The next morning, as we were eating our usual muesli in warm, sweet milk, I looked up the mountain, and noticed a mob of angry-looking peasants coming down, all carrying sticks and pickaxes and walking in a very determinate way.

- Oh Brother, I said, here comes the revolution!

However, it turned out to be a crew of road-workers on their way to clear up the road from some landslide.

So the bus left 8 o'clock without us, and we headed out on the final little stretch of our walk. After crossing a wide river with some difficulty, we could follow the dirt-road all the way down to Martselang, a smooth descent of 300 meters, after which we turned north-west and ascended a further 200 meters across an open stone-field to the village of Hemis. Here, we found a spot between a little hamlet of Tibetan stupas, across the bus-stand from the main gompa, and we sat down and prepared our last supper, consisting of four baggies of 'Maggies nudles' and ate them unceremoniously, exactly like the lunch we'd had the seven previous days. Everything went easily by now, we had our established routines and were just going through the motions. After supper, we took a light inspection of the gompa and it's main features, and then proceeded down the hill, all the way down to the Indus River where we found a bridge and crossed it and went up to the road-side and waited 5 minutes for the bus to come along and we rode the last 40 km back to Leh, on the bus together with a bunch of local men, women and children, starring wide-eyed at these three stinking, dirty, unshaven, white creatures coming in from the wilderness.

End of story. Thanks for reading it!

If you'd like to know more about Ladakh, here's some reading suggestions. They will surely help you get in the mood for a visit to Ladakh. And it doesn't have to be the rough way like I did it;-) If you're going, promise me to read some material first. You will get so much more out of your trip!

Good trekking!

Manali to Leh road by Jeep

2009-08-17T20:09:00.011+05:30

The Manali-Leh road is not just any other road. Connecting Himachal Pradesh with Jammu-and-Kashmir (two Indian states), this Himalayan road trip crosses over the Himalayas as the second highest motorable road in the world, reaching some 5000 meter altitude in the process! It's a pretty fantastic experience driving from Manali to Leh (or from Leh to Manali) on this road. We rented a jeep with a driver to take us, but there's also buses and people crossing over on motorbikes. But its a harrowing ride at times. The only reason the Manali-Leh road exists in the first place is that it provides a route for the Indian Army to mobilize on the border to Pakistan and China. Well, after I got back, I wrote the following little story which will fill you in on the road conditions:

Manali to Leh (Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh)

I'd been staying in this cheap hotel-room in Manali over the weekend, just decompressing and catching up on some reading after a hectic couple of weeks in Varanasi and Delhi, preceded by a hectic couple of months in Kathmandu. This was the first time in three months that I was in a place where nobody knew my name, and I didn't know anybody. On my own. A complete unknown. With no direction home...

Incense sticks had been burning on the little porch, while I’d been sitting there, breathing the fresh country air, quietly, without the constant hustle and bustle of the city. Now was a time for a change of pace. It was - finally - time to hit the mountains. This was gonna be the crown of my Indian adventure, I just knew. Taj Mahal would have to wait. So on the early Monday morning on the 25th day of August, I picked up my backpack and headed out in the starlit night, down to the rendez-vous point with the jeep that was going to take me up to Leh. Five other guys, 2 Aussies, 2 English and a citizen of the United States, were pretty much all packed up and ready to go when I got there, so I threw my backpack up on the top of the roof of the jeep, and a little after 2 o'clock we set out on what we expected to be a 20-hour drive north, up to one of the most remote outstations of civilization.

Given the early hour of the day, everybody was quiet as we rolled out of town and onto the lonesome Manali-Leh road, the second highest motorable road in the world. But we hadn't driven more than five minutes before we hit upon the first major obstacle. A fuel-truck was lying across the road and blocking off all traffic up and down, except for pedestrians. Nothing to do except to wait for somebody to wake up somebody to make a decision on what to do, to get out the heavy machinery and clear the road...So 6 hours later, the truck was pushed aside and the hundreds of vehicles now gathered here, slowly re-commenced their raucous flow. Our driver, a Punjabi fellow that didn't speak much English, now put the pedal to the metal and raced up the winding little mountain road, taking over every bus, truck, jeep and tractor he could, driving sometimes with two wheels on the edge of the abyss, trying desperately to make up for the lost time, ignoring every one of the corny, creative and convoluted roadsigns, cautioning drivers to slow down: 'I want you Darling, but not so fast', 'Heaven, Hell or Mother Earth, the choice is yours' and 'Go slow friend, on my bend' is some of the more and less profound messages you see. We reached the Rohtang La Pass a couple of hours later, the driver had a curry in a little mountain shag restaurant owned by some relatives of his, and after that, he was more shanti shanti. What is a Punjabi, without his curry?

Proceeding downhill through the green, cliff-dotted landscape, we went through the villages of Khoksar, Sissu and took a right in Tandi. Road conditions had been pretty good so far, but now that we had turned north-east, conditions deteriorated a bit. Shortly before noon, we saw a cloud of dust rising up ahead on the road and surely enough, when we got there, a good chunk of the mountain had decided to crash down on the road in front of us, but the rock was so fragile that it had shattered into hundreds of medium-sized stones, stones we could all handle manually and chuck out over the side of the road, down on the valley floor far below, and that way we cleared the road in less than ten minutes.

Picking up the trail, we drove up through the villages of Keylong, Darcha and Zing-Zingbar towards the Baralacha La, while watching the greenery thin out and the dusty, but breath-taking moon-landscape of the Western Himalayas approaching. Big rocks were lying everywhere, up and down the hill-sides and on the road, making us bounce up and down in our seats inside the jeep. And finally, we passed the Baralacha La on top of the Himalayan ridge. Around us, mountain-tops were covered in snow and glaciers on their northern sides, one glacier had collapsed and caused a huge avalanche all the way down pass the former road, which had been washed away, bulldozers now being busy carving out a new road through the rock-, dust- and ice-debris. The sun was getting low in the sky as we descended down to the vast plains of Sarchu, where we passed the tent-camp and followed the canyon-ridge all the way to the foot of the Zanskar Range.

Sarchu plains, Manali to Leh road

As the sun was setting in the west, we started to rise up along the southern side of the mountain, thereby expanding our horizon, prolonging the sunset and catching every last ray of the sun. As we reached the 5000 meter Lunga-lacha La around dusk, the evening winds were blowing, and up in this altitude, it means that it's getting cold. So without further ado, we swiftly moved on, but with a peculiar thought about having stood on a piece of road that is higher than any point in Europe or the USA or much of the rest of the world.

Looking back as we climbed up towards the Lunga-lacha La

After the pass, we spent the next three hours in a slow descent, caught in a virtual Himalayan traffic jam. It was dark now, and the discomfort was becoming more and more annoying for every turn we took. The day-long bumpy ride, the static sitting position, the strangulating exhaust-fumes and smell of burned motor-oil from the trucks struggling with the steep road and my mild symptoms of altitude sickness were all putting my meditation-skills on a strenuous test. So I was relieved when, around 9 o'clock, we reached a little nomadic teepee encampment and decided to stop there for the night.

So we stepped out of the jeep and into total darkness and gazed up upon the clear, moon-less night sky and all the stars and the Milky-way and half of the Universe. Wow! Never did I realize that there were so many stars. But the air was cold, so we took shelter in one of the teepees and the old ladies there, took care of us like our mothers, gave us warm food and chai and tugged us in under stacks of heavy blankets and I had a wonderful sleep in all my clothes and woke up the next morning a little before sunrise, ready to face the world and the mountains and the passes and whatever and whatnot.

So somewhere along the road, probably Monday evening, we must have crossed the border into the badlands of Jammu and Kashmir where the mighty Taglang La was awaiting us with all of it's 5325 meters, the highest point of our route. Snowcapped peaks could be seen near and far, where the rugged, sand-colored mountain walls weren't blocking our view. The road was clear and our journey this morning went smooth, as we passed the Tanglang La and descended into the Indus Valley and the vast desert plains with only sporadic isles of vegetation and around noon, we reached the town of Leh.

Juley Leh!
The multi-purpose word that means welcome and hello and goodbye and please and thank you and you're welcome and all other common pleasantries you can think of. You hear it all the time. During the short, 4-month season, Leh is a busy little town filled with smart-looking tourists. Everybody here is fit and up to something big. We're all doing extreme sports and wearing 'The North Face'-jackets, 'Goretex'-hiking boots and trendy glacier-style sunglasses. Or hemp-clothes with Tibetan patterns, bandanas and blankets in all sorts of orange and Dalai Lama-red colors. Here, we all look like a damn fine bunch of people!

On Main Bazar in Leh

I spent a good week based in the homely Oriental Guest House, getting acclimatized, seeing the sights, getting a bit in shape and arranging my trek. I decided to do an 8-day trek in the Markha Valley.

(Read about that experiences in this blog post: The Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh)

When I got back to Leh, I spent another good week, reading books and playing cards and generally doing as little as I possibly could. The town had gotten quieter while we'd been away and on the 20th of September, Stefan and I took the bus back to Manali, passing through the same landscape once again, but it was now markedly more snow-covered. The festival was over and in 10 days the road will be closed along with most of the shops and restaurants in Leh, the whole region going back into it's eight month of winter hibernation, living with the nature, repeating the endless cycle of the changing of the seasons.

Crossing the lonely Zanskar Mountains near Pang, 4600m altitude, Leh-Manali Highway, Ladakh, India. (Photographic Poster Print by Tony Waltham, 16x12 inch.)

Buy this photo as a 12x16 inch poster!