Annapurna: Seasons for Trekking

Friday, September 11, 2009

What’s the best time to go trekking on the Annapurna Circuit, Base Camp and Annapurna Sancturary?

Well, here’s the amazing thing. You can actually go trekking in Annapurna all year round! The different seasons do make a difference. In the winter season it’s largely dry and cold on the Annapurna and in the summer season you get rain showers on part of the trek – but not the whole trek and not all the time! The seasons in between, October-November and March-April are generally regarded the best season for trekking the Annapurna. The weather is most clear, best views, and mostly free of rain and snow. It’s all about the weather on the Annapurna.

Annapurna in Nepal is one of the most awesome trekking regions in the world. You get really high up and close to the 8000+ meter Annapurna I and there is good trekking infrastructure and lodges all the way. No strict need for bringing camping gear, although you can choose to do so - more about that below. You can hire porters and/or guides for a reasonable amount, but you don’t necessarily need them. You can trek the Annapurna alone if you want.

I will write more about trekking in the Annapurna region in general, since it’s such a fantastic trek with a lot of options for side-trips etc. But for this blog post, I will limit myself to writing about the different seasons on the Annapurna. What do you need to know and bring when going this or that time of year.
The best guide book for trekking the Annapurna
(NEW EDITION!):

If you are going without a (human) guide, let this one do the job!


ANNAPURNA IN OCTOBER / NOVEMBER

October is the absolute high-season for trekking on the Annapurna. Why? October usually has very clear weather conditions, allowing for the best views of the Annapurna mountains. The downside is that the trekking trail can get a bit crowded with other trekkers. Not really a problem, just don’t expect to be alone on the trail. If you want to avoid the worst “rush hour traffic”, just set out early in the morning, before everyone else.

How cold does it get on Annapurna in October / November?

I don’t know the exact temperature, but when you get above 10,000 ft / 3,500 meters it’s often perfect trekking conditions during the daytime. Some people even cross the 17,700 ft / 5,400 meter Thorung La high pass in shorts and t-shirt! -- But I’d advice you to at least have a good fleece jacket handy – be sure to get one with inside wind-protection, like this one from North Face: Male / Female. They are hard to come by in Kathmandu’s cheap-o trekking shops. In the late afternoons, evenings and early mornings it does get rather chilly when you are up in altitude. A lightweight down jacket is not a must for this season, but can be really comfortable slipping into when you are not walking! Have a look at recommended trekking jackets here. And more tips on how to stay warm here.

Towards the end of November, snow conditions start to be a concern. Snowfall can occur and the high pass can close down for a few days if there is heavy snowfall. But it usually opens up again quickly, a few days or so. This is time to consider how to stay extra warm by taking good care of your head, hands and feet. Is it necessary with a sleeping bag for Annapurna treks in October/November? Not strictly, but... definitely worth considering. It will add some comfort.

ANNAPURNA IN DECEMBER / JANUARY / FEBRUARY

The good news about trekking the Annapurna during winter season is that the weather conditions are still very clear. Mostly. Same or better than Oct-Nov. The bad news is that snow is more likely to make difficulties for you. But also fun! Check the post with snow & ice trekking tips here to make your winter trek possible. With the right preparation, this is the best time for Annapurna!

December can still be snow-free or only have light snow, that’s not unusual. Makes for a good option if you just want to avoid the big trekking crowds! January and February are more likely to see days with high snow. I’ve been there in early February and it was quite doable. But from what we were told, the week before there were snow everywhere. The only tricky thing is the Thorung La pass. It can be closed for days. You might want to give extra consideration to hiring a guide / porter to help you over the pass during this season. One or two trekking poles can also be of some help here. Even built in compass and thermometer is standard fare for trekking poles today!

But with good trekking footwear, warm clothes, a comfy sleeping bag and some attention and luck with the weather, you can still make excellent use of the trekking trails on Annapurna. And in case of severe snow, you just have to be ready to “camp” in one of the trekking lodges for a few days until it’s over. Bring a good book! ( -- The obvious choices for Annapurna being Herzog's classic account or Bonnington's revolutinary account! Click links for free sneak peek inside.)

ANNAPURNA IN MARCH / APRIL

Still cold when you get high up, still chances of snow, but nothing that will stop you anymore. Just adds to the beauty! March-April is also called the ‘half-season’ or the ‘second high season’. The climate starts to get warmer, specially on the lower parts of the trekking trail, but it can also mean more hazy weather. You should still be able to get some stunning views of all the Annapurna peaks etc.

Clothing for Annapurna etc: Bring both shorts/t-shirts and long thermal layering underwear and a warm jacket. Perhaps consider getting zip-off trousers /shorts and a fleece + Goretex jacket. And I'd still recommend a sleeping bag for Annapurna in March/April unless you are one of those persons trying to set a track record by doing the whole Circuit in a week or so.

Black&White Picture of Annapurna IV (left peak, 7500m / 25,000ft) &
Annapurna II (right peak, 7900m / 26,000ft) in March.
--> Get this photo as a print / large poster HERE! <--

ANNAPURNA IN MAY / JUNE

May is usually also a good month for trekking the Annapurna. This is the pre-monsoon / early monsoon season. The climate gets hotter and the distant views start to fade in more hazy weather. Once you get higher, above the tree line and into the northern side of the Annapurna Himalayas, the conditions are really excellent though.

As June comes knocking on the door, the chance of rain increases. But his year (2009), Nepal hardly saw a drop of rain in June. It’s varies from year to year. Just be prepared. You can usually spot the rain before it comes, so plenty of time to get out a rain cover or head for the nearest shelter.

Rain showers usually don’t last long and mostly comes in the afternoon when the sun starts to head down. If you are properly prepared, it shouldn't be a problem. Some tips on rain trekking here.

ANNAPURNA IN JULY / AUGUST

Ok, this is high monsoon season and it will almost certainly rain. Although with all this global climate change, who knows anything for sure anymore?!

Even if it does rain, there are good reasons to go trekking on the Annapurna in July/August.

(1) Manang, the high part of the Annapurna Circuit trek, is in the rain shadow! One of the few places in Nepal where it hardly rains this time of year!
(2) There’s plenty of lodges and shelters.
(3) There’s not that many other people around
(4) The landscape is at its most green this time of year.
(5) In the lower parts of the trek, it will probably rain. But often not until 2-3 o’clock in the afternoon.

All this said, you’ll want to bring your trekking rain gear. And keep an eye on leeches and landslides. Leeches can be annoying, but are harmless. They are only found on the lower parts of the trek. Landslides/mudslides are also annoying but not always as harmless, unfortunately :-(

ANNAPURNA IN SEPTEMBER

This is the end of the monsoon season / early post-monsoon. Trekking the Annapurna this time of year should be really good. As a matter of fact, I should have been on my way up there now! But too many family issues are holding me back this year. Bugger! Will have to wait until next year.

Why do I want to go trekking Annapurna in September?

It’s just before the main season starts, meaning fairly good trekking conditions without too many other trekkers around. I’ll have it largely to myself up there!

There’ll likely still be rain showers on the Annapurna in September. So again, remember to bring your rain trekking gear. But once you get into the rain shadow that will mostly be unnecessary. Freak storms do occur though.

A little warning: Snow can pile up on the mountains above you during monsoon. During warm afternoons this time of year, there are risks that it will collapse and fall down on the trekking trail. Specially if you are heading up in the Annapurna Sanctuary, there is an infamous stretch between the Hinku Cave and Deurali. For an hour or so, you are going right under the peak of Hinchuli, usually holding large amounts of snow. Try avoiding walking this part in the afternoon!

Happy Trekking!

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